Quick Tip for the Week

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   15 feb 06 

------------------- 

Spinners and lures with spinner-type blades have a dual appeal that 
accounts for their success in both clear and murky waters. In clear water, 
gamefish can spot the flash of the revolving blade from a distance; in 
murky water, they use their lateral line sense to pinpoint the vibration 
from the turning blade. 

Another reason for the success of these lures is the relative ease of using 
them. They will produce fish with a simple, straight retrieve. Further, 
when a fish strikes a spinner, it often hooks itself. 

Used properly, spinner-type lures will catch almost any kind of freshwater 
gamefish. These lures will work at any time of year, but are especially 
effective when extremely cold or warm water makes fish lethargic and 
reluctant to chase anything moving too fast. Most spinner blades will turn 
even at very slow retrieve speeds. 

Different blades have different amounts of water resistance. A broad 
blade rotates at a greater angle to the shaft and thus has more resistance 
than a narrow one. A large blade has more resistance than a smaller one 
of the same shape. 

The greater the resistance, the shallower the the lure will run at a given 
speed. Generally, wide blades are best suited to slow retrieves and light 
current; narrow ones to fast retrieves and swift current. 

Popular blades include 1) Colorado; 2) Indiana; 3) French; 4) willow leaf; 5) fluted, which reflects light in all directions; 6) sonic blade, which spins at high speed; 7) scissor-style blade, which adjusts according to needs and conditions; and 8) buzz blade, which sputters when retrieved on the surface. 

Angle of rotation varies with different styles of blades. Colorado-type blades (above) turn at an angle to the shaft approximately 50 degrees; Indiana and French blades, about 40 degrees; and willow leaf blades, about 25 degrees. 

Edited by TasunkaWitko

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TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 February 2006 at 06:59
	15 feb 06 ------------------- Spinners and lures with spinner-type blades have a dual appeal that accounts for their success in both clear and murky waters. In clear water, gamefish can spot the flash of the revolving blade from a distance; in murky water, they use their lateral line sense to pinpoint the vibration from the turning blade. Another reason for the success of these lures is the relative ease of using them. They will produce fish with a simple, straight retrieve. Further, when a fish strikes a spinner, it often hooks itself. Used properly, spinner-type lures will catch almost any kind of freshwater gamefish. These lures will work at any time of year, but are especially effective when extremely cold or warm water makes fish lethargic and reluctant to chase anything moving too fast. Most spinner blades will turn even at very slow retrieve speeds. Different blades have different amounts of water resistance. A broad blade rotates at a greater angle to the shaft and thus has more resistance than a narrow one. A large blade has more resistance than a smaller one of the same shape. The greater the resistance, the shallower the the lure will run at a given speed. Generally, wide blades are best suited to slow retrieves and light current; narrow ones to fast retrieves and swift current. Popular blades include 1) Colorado; 2) Indiana; 3) French; 4) willow leaf; 5) fluted, which reflects light in all directions; 6) sonic blade, which spins at high speed; 7) scissor-style blade, which adjusts according to needs and conditions; and 8) buzz blade, which sputters when retrieved on the surface. Angle of rotation varies with different styles of blades. Colorado-type blades (above) turn at an angle to the shaft approximately 50 degrees; Indiana and French blades, about 40 degrees; and willow leaf blades, about 25 degrees. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 February 2006 at 04:09
	22 feb 06 ------------------ Quick Tip For The Week Jig Basics: Many expert fishermen consider jigs to be the most consistently productive of all artificial lures. They work for a variety of species under almost any conditions. A jig is simply a piece of lead, tin or other metal with a hook molded onto it. A dress-ing of hair, feathers, tinsel or soft plastic generally conceals the hook. Many anglers also tip jigs with worms, minnows, leaches and other natural bait. Use the lightest line practi-cal for the species and fishing conditions if your line is too heavy, the lure will sink too slowly and not stay at the de- sired depth when retrieved; also, strikes will be more diffi-cult to detect. Be sure to use a wire leader when fishing for northern pike, pickerel or mus-kellunge. When selecting jigging lures, the main consideration is weight. Your selection must be a compromise based on the type of fish, water depth, cur-rent speed and wind velocity. For panfish, most anglers pre-fer lures of no more than 1/8 ounce. For mid-sized gamefish such as walleye and bass, 1/4-1/2-ounce jigs normally work best. For larger gamefish, lures of 1 ounce or more are usually most productive. The lure must be heavy enough to reach the desired depth, but not so heavy that it sinks too fast. Fish usually prefer a slowly-falling jig to one plummeting toward bot-tom. As a general rule, allow 1/8 ounce for every 10 feet of water. For example, a lure of at least 1/4 ounce would be needed to reach bottom in water 20 feet deep. In slow current, however, the same lure would only reach a depth of about 15 feet. As the current becomes faster, the weight of the lure needed to reach bottom increases. Fishing with jigs: The most common way to fish a jig is to cast to a likely spot, then retrieve the lure in short hops along bottom. An-other effective method is to jig vertically in tight spots or while drifting with the wind or current. When fish are sus-pended, you can count your jig down to different depths until you find the most productive level. Catching fish on jigs re-quires a high level of concen-tration, a fine- tuned sense of feel and quick reflexes. If you fail to pay constant attention, if you are not accustomed to rec-ognizing subtle strikes, or if you do not set the hook imme-diately, chances are you will go home with an empty stringer. You can improve your jig-fishing skills by following these guidelines: • Keep your line taut at all times, especially as the jig sinks; but the line should not be so tight that it inter-feres with the action of the jig. • Stay alert for any twitch or sideways movement of the line. • Watch your line carefully to make sure the jig sinks normally after the cast and when jigging. If it stops sinking unexpectedly, a fish has probably grabbed it. • Set the hook at the slight-est indication of a strike. Do not hesitate; a fish can pick up a jig and expel it in an instant. Always tie your jig directly to the line, without snaps, swivels or other connectors. A loop not such as the Duncan loop will allow the jig to swing freely, maximizing its action. When fishing for northern pike, pickerel or muskellunge, attach a striker to your jig using a twist-melt connection or a haywire twist. Most serious jig fishermen carry a jig box stocked with a wide variety of heads and dressings for different species and situations. Often a head weighing even 1/8 ounce more or less than the one you are using can make a big differ-ence. Popular head designs include: 1) ball, which is versatile and fast-sinking; 2) keel, which slices through the water and is ideal for fast current or deep water; 3) bullet, which is similar to the keel but snags less; 4) slider, flattened horizontally so that it sinks slowly and glides through water; 5) mushroom, designed for use with soft plastic tails; 6) banana, which points the tail up, making the jig ideal for vertical jigging; 7) stand-up, which has a high-riding hook and is fairly snag-resistant; 8) pyramid, similar to the banana and stand-up; 9) lip style, giving the jig a wiggling action; 10) pony with a spinner for extra flash; and 11) propeller, which adds flash and vibration. Cast your jig past the “fish zone,” then 1) pay out line as the jig sinks. When the jig hits bottom, 2) your line will go slack. Tighten your line slightly, then 3) twitch the rod tip to make the jig hop forward. As the jig sinks, 4) lower the rod tip slowly to keep the line taut. Keeping a taut line at this point is the key to success with this technique. Continue to hop the jig this way until you can no longer maintain contact with bottom. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 February 2006 at 07:07
	i march 2006 ----------------------------------- Always use a steel leader when fishing for Esocids, which include northern pike, muskellunge and pickerel. The razor-sharp edges on Esocid teeth are apparent in this electron microscope photograph. The teeth pierce and cut prey better than walleye teeth (inset), which are enarly round. This also explains why pike and muskies can easily bit off monofilament line, while walleyes can’t. Esocids are the only freshwater fish that require steel leaders, which are unnecessary for any other freshwater fishing. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 March 2006 at 07:09
	8 mar 06 -------------------------- Corning Big Game: Corning is a method of meat preservation developed in the days before refrigeration. After butchering a steer, a farmer would cure the brisket or some other tough cut in a salt/sugar brine for several weeks. The salt acted as a preservative, and the sugar developed flavor and tenderness. Meat cured this way was called “corned” because the salt pellets were about the size of corn kernels. On a moose or elk, the brisket, or thin meat that covers the bottom of the rib cage, is thick enough for corning. On smaller animals like antelope and deer, it may be too thin. A rolled, boneless shoulder roast will work well; flank meat, which lies between the last rib and hindquarter, is also a good choice. The corning method below requires two types of salt. Canning and pickling salt is pure salt, without any iodine or free-flowing agents, which might adversely affect the texture of the meat. Tenderizing salt is a mixture of salt, sugar and preservatives. It adds flavor and tenderness, and the preservatives give the meat its characteristic pink color. To make corned venison, follow this method: • 2 to 3-pound brisket, flank or shoulder roast up to 1 inch thick. • 2 quarts spring water or distilled water • 1/2 cup canning and pickling salt • 1/2 cup tenderizing salt (e.g. Morton’s TenderQuick) • 3 Tbs. sugar • 2 Tbs. mixed pickling spice • 2 bay leaves • 8 whole, black peppercorns • 1 or 2 cloves garlic, minced Roll brisket, flank or shoulder loosely and tie. Place in large glass or pottery mixing bowl, or in large oven cooking bag. In large glass or enamel saucepan, combine remaining ingredients. Heat just to boiling, then remove from heat and cool. Pour cooled brine over meat. Cover bowl with plastic wrap; or, if using oven cooking bag, squeeze to remove air, then twist neck of bag and seal. Refrigerate 4 to 5 days, turning meat occasionally. Drain and rinse meat with cold water.
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 March 2006 at 07:55
	15 march 06 ------------------------------- If you are out at the lake or on the ice and the fishing is especially good, you might run out of bait. The way perch steal bait, you can spend more time baiting your hook than fishing. Two common fish, walleyes and perch, bring their own bait with them. Try tipping jigs or hooks with these natural baits, which can be used on the lake or frozen for later use: Cut the throat tissue out of a walleye by slicing along the dotted lines as shown. Then cut the tissue loose at the point of the chin. Drive the hook through the front of the piece of throat tissue. The meat is thicker and tougher, so the hook won’t tear out. The thin flesh wiggles enticingly, emits natural scent and is remarkably durable. Scale the belly of a small perch and cut out an inch-long strip (dotted lines). Split one end of the strip to form two tails. Hook the other end on the jog or hook. This bait attracts fish with smell, taste and action. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 March 2006 at 09:15
	22 mar 06 --------------------- Nearly all of the tips and recipes that are printed in this column come from one of two sources. The first is my website, www.baitshopboyz.com, which I started back in 2001. Over the last five years, the BaitShop has grown into an outstanding web community of sportsmen dedicated to hunting, fishing, shooting, camping, conservation and generally anything to do with the outdoors. More than 550 members from every corner of the United States as well as Canada, Australia, New Zealand and other countries meet at the BaitShop to swap information, stories and good times. If you would like to tap into this wealth of information, or simply shoot the breeze with a group of fellow sportsmen, take a look at this website. This web service is totally, 100% free of charge; all you need is a computer. Check it out. A second source that I rely on very heavily is a series of books called The Hunting and Fishing Library. Originally published by Cy DeCosse Publishing, the series went on to be published by Cowles Creative Publishing. To my knowledge, the original series is now out of print, but books can still be found in bookstores and on the Internet; I have also seen some copies at K-Mart, Wal-Mart and Shop-Ko. Two very good Internet sources for these books are amazon.com and ebay.com, where these books can be purchased for a very reasonable price. Some of the titles in the series include: The Art of Freshwater Fishing, Cleaning and Cooking Fish, Fishing Rivers and Streams, Walleye, Northern Pike and Muskie, Fishing with Natural Bait, Fishing with Artificial Lures, Fishing Tips and Tricks, the Art of Hunting, Dressing and Cooking Wild Game, Mule Deer, Elk, Pronghorn and Upland Game Birds. This is just a small sampling of titles. I highly recommend this series to anyone interested in reading about hunting or fishing. As always, I welcome and encourage anyone out there to submit recipes or tips. They can be sent to me by email at bcj_fischer@yahoo.com or mailed to Ron Fischer, C/O The Blaine County Journal, POB 279, Chinook, Montana 59523. Also, if anyone would like to see any specific recipes printed or has specific questions about the outdoors sports, please let me know. I’ll do my best to accommodate your request!
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 23 March 2006 at 07:57
	Look for early-season walleyes on rock piles in water less than 10 feet deep. The rocks absorb the sunlight and warm the surrounding water. Most of the lake is still cold, so walleyes are attracted to these zones of warmer water. The large rocks also cast shadows where the walleyes can hide and avoid bright sunlight. These areas appeal to walleyes for another reason: the warmth attracts invertebrates, which attract baitfish on which the walleyes feed. The difference in temperature may be only a degree or two, but it is enough to make quite a difference. Some areas along shore are warmer than others, so they draw more walleyes. Water in a sheltered bay, for instance, warms faster than water along a straight shoreline because the wind can’t mix it with deeper, cooler water. Bays are obvious spots to check, but another type of spot that isn’t so obvious becomes evident if you have a hydrographic (contour) map of the lake. Indentations in the breakline (black arrow) function much like bays, but are not obvious from looking at the shoreline. Sunlight heats the surface layer of the lake, and if the wind (white arrow) pushes the warm water toward shore, it will collect in the depression. An indentation on the downwind side of the lake may have water that is 10 degrees warmer than nearby shallows. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 March 2006 at 06:15
	5 apr 06 ---------------------------- When jig fishing for walleyes, it is often productive to tip the jig with a minnow or other live bait. The problem with this is that walleyes tend to strike at the tail, eliminating any chance of getting hooked. This situation is called a short strike. When jig fishing, check your minnow for teeth marks or ripped skin if you had a short strike but failed to hook the fish. Damaged skin on the rear half of the minnow means that walleyes are striking short and that you should add a stinger. A stinger is a small treble hook on a short length of mono that is attached to the jig and inserted into the tail end of the minnow (or other bait). You can attach a stinger to the bend of the jig’s hook; alternately, you can also attach the stinger at the eye of the jig, leaving the bend of the hook free so that you can change jig tails or dressings without removing the stinger. Any knot can be used to attach the stinger, if you want it to be a fixed length. If you are using minnows or other bait of different lengths, you can learn to tie on an adjustable stinger that allows you to change the length of the mono. To do this: 1. Tie a size 10 treble hook to a length of mono with a Duncan loop (see below). 2. Attach the loose end to the bend of the jig hook using any fishing knot. 3. Shorten the mono to fit a small minnow by sliding the knot closer to the jog hook. 4. Lengthen the mono to fit a larger minnow by sliding the knot toward the stinger. If the loop closes, you can reopen it with your fingernails. To tie a Duncan loop, The normal strength of mono used is 6- or 8-pound; the lighter the better, so that the minnow can move freely. Sometimes, even this light mono will inhibit the action of the bait; the line can also wrap around the minnow, cinching it into a half-circle and ruining its action. If this becomes a problem, try an alternate method: Tie a smaller (size 14 or 16) treble hook to the bend of a hook with s short length of stiff or hard line (any knot can be used), 15-pound test or heavier. The stiff line holds the treble straight out behind the jig, so you don’t need to hook it into the bait. The bait moves freely, as if the stinger wasn’t there at all; however, when a fish nips at the tail, it gets hooked. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 06 April 2006 at 07:57
	12 apr 06 There’s no disputing the concept of catch-and-release fishing, but unless fishermen know exactly how to release their fish, many will die from mishandling. If you follow these procedures, the fish you release will have an excellent chance of survival. • Flatten barbs on hook so that they can be removed without injuring the fish. By keeping a tight line during the fight, you will seldom lose a fish. • When playing a fish on a river or stream, move to a location out of the current. This way, it cannot use the current to its advantage, and tires more quickly. • Leave the fish in the water, grasp the hook with a pliers or hemostat, then shake the hook to release the fish. This way, you won’t remove the fish’s protective slime, which protects it from infection. Do not squeeze or touch the gills. • Cut the leader if a fish is deeply hooked. In a Wisconsin study, 56% of deep-hooked fish survived when the leader was cut; only 11% survived when the hook was removed. • Hold the fish in an upright position facing into the current. Give it time to recover so it can swim away on its own. If it starts to sink, hold it upright a little while longer. • After an especially long battle, the fish might need a little help gaining its energy back. Hold the fish in the water and gently move the fish back and forth in the water to get water running through the gills, the fish will scoot when it is ready. Above all, do everything you can to minimize stress and fatigue for the fish. Play it quickly, keep it in the water and handle the fish as little as possible.
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 April 2006 at 06:40
	19 apr 06 --------------------------------------------------- Crankbaits, plugs and “Rapala”-style minnows will catch practically any kind of gamefish except the smallest panfish species. The key to fishing these types of lures is to know that they run at different depths and are most effective within their “optimum” depth. For instance, if you’re fishing in 8 feet of water, you’ll probably want a lure that runs 6 or 7 feet deep. To determine how deep a crankbait tracks, retrieve the lure through water of a known depth, feeling for it to touch the bottom. If it does, move to slightly deeper water and try again. Continue until the lure no longer touches and note the depth. To help you remember how deep your crankbait runs, write the running depth of each lure on the body or lip with an indelible marker so you know at a glance which crankbait to use. Running depths are often listed in catalogs or the instructions that come with the lures, but it’s best to test them yourself. Different line weights and retrieve speeds will cause the lures to run at different depths. A crankbait will not attain maximum depth unless tuned so that it tracks perfectly straight. Depending on the type of lip, a crankbait must be tuned by bending or twisting the eye, bending the lip itself or bending the attachment wire. To reach maximum depth, cast as far as possible and keep your rod tip low while retrieving. With a shorter cast or higher rod position, you will begin pulling the plug upward before it reaches its potential depth. As noted before, line diameter also affects depth. Thin line has less water resistance and allows the plug to run deeper than thick line. The smaller the plug, the more it is affected by line diameter. 6- to 12-pound mono is usually sufficient for most fishing, but for heavy cover or big fish, strength up to 25-pound test may be necessary. For the best action, tie a crankbait directly to the line. If the plug does not have a split ring on the eye, install one or use a Duncan loop (demonstrated a couple of weeks ago; if you need a copy, email me). A heavy leader or snap-swivel will restrict the plug’s wobble. To keep your lure in the “fish zone” as long as possible, cast parallel to the structure or cover. For example, to work the shady side of a log, cast parallel to the log and retrieve the lure along its length. If you cast perpendicular to a log, your lure will be in the fish zone only a fraction of the time. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 21 April 2006 at 07:29
	For top quality flavor, all fish should be field dressed as quickly as possible by removing the gills, guts and kidney, all of which spoil fast in a dead fish. Field dress fish that are to be cooked whole or steaked. It is not necessary to field dress fish if they are to be filleted within an hour or two. Scale fish that are to be cooked with their skin on. Scaling fish is quick and easy with a scaler, though a dull knife or spoon can be used. Wet the fish and scrape off the scales, working from tail to head. This job should be done outdoors, because scales can fly in all directions; or, line the kitchen sink with newspapers and scale as carefully as possible. When field dressing and scaling at home, place your catch on several layers of newspapers to ease cleanup. Before field dressing, wipe the fish with paper towels to remove slime. This makes it easier to hold the fish firmly. If you puncture the guts, wash the body cavity with cold water. Use water sparingly, because it softens the fish. The head can be removed after dressing. Paper towels are excellent for wiping off scales and blood spots, and for drying fish. Field dressing is easier if you have the right tools, and if you clean the fish in a convenient location. Practice different cleaning techniques until you can clean fish quickly and with little waste. To field dress trout and small salmon: • Slice the throat connection, the tissue that connects the lower jaw and the gill membrane. • Insert the knife in the vent, run the blade tip up along the stomach to the gills, taking care not to puncture the intestines. • Push your thumb into the throat; pull gills and guts toward the tail. Scrape out bloodline with a spoon, then rinse out cavity. To field dress other fish: • Remove gills by cutting the throat connection, then along both sides of the arch so the gills pull out easily. • Insert the knife in the vent, run the blade up to the gills. Pull the guts and gills out carefully. •Cut the membrane along the backbone. Scrape out the kidney or bloodline underneath the membrane, then rinse out cavity. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 28 April 2006 at 12:22
	3 may 06 ------------------------------- Some fish recipes for cooking larger fish call for the fish to be "butterflied." This procedure keeps the fish whole while making it boneless. To do this, use the instructions and pictures below as a guide. Start with a whole, drawn fish such as a lake trout or walleye. Cut from inside cavity along each side of backbone to release bone from fish (Left). Do not cut through skin. Discard bone and spread out two sides of fish so it lies flat (Right). Trim fat and discard belly meat. Remove rib bones. "Butterflying" also refers to a preparation method that is a fast and appealing alternative to steaking larger, smooth-skinned fish such as large trout, salmon or catfish. Normally, these fish are "steaked," which means that they are cut into sections through the backbone along the ribs. When butterflying them, however, you don’t cut through the heavy backbone, so your knife stays sharp. The finished cut is also easier to eat than a steak because it has no bones. Finally, butterflied fillets are more appealing because the meat is on the outside, with the skin and fat tucked away on the inside. To butterfly fillets: Cut a (1) fillet from the fish. Remove the rib bones, but don’t skin the fillet. (2) Slice across the fillet, about an inch from the end, cutting through the meat but not the skin. (3) Make a second cut, parallel to the first and about an inch farther from the end; slice completely through both the meat and the skin. (4) Fold the piece of fish backwards along the first cut so the meat is on the outside and the skin is on the inside. Butterfly the rest of the fillet, except the tail section.
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 May 2006 at 08:25
	10 may 06 ------------------------------- The fillets of many kinds of fish contain a row of small bones, called epipleural ribs, that lie right above the rob cage. Here’s an easy way to get rid of those bones: Remove the row of bones after first locating it with your finger. Slice through the fillet along one side of the bones for the length of the body cavity. Then slice along the other side, forming a thin strip (dotted line) that you can lift out, leaving a completely boneless fillet. Members of the pike family have delicious, flaky meat; but the Y-bones (above) are bothersome enough that some people refuse to eat these fish. Although there are a couple of ways to remove these bones, most fishermen don’t know how, so they are forced to pick them out at the table. Here’s one easy way to make boneless fillets from pike and pickerel. Then you can forget about Y-bones and enjoy your meal. Cut down behind the head. Turn the blade toward the tail and run it along the backbone (dotted line). Slice upward just ahead of the dorsal fin, cutting away the back fillet. Loosen the skin along the edge of the back fillet so it will lie flat on the cutting surface. Now you can skin the fillet as you would any other. Remove the side fillets by first cutting down to the backbone, once behind the head, and a second time ahead of the dorsal fin (arrows). Feel along the back to find the Y-bones (row of dots). With the fish on its side, insert your knife just above the Y-bones and cut away a fillet (shown) so the Y-bones remain attached to the fish. Remove the fillet from the other side in the same way. Skin the fillets. Cut off the fillets from each side of the tail section by slicing along the backbone. There are no Y-bones in this part of the fish. Skin the tail fillets. You now have five boneless fillets. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 May 2006 at 08:54
	17 may 06 ------------------------------------- When bottom fishing form shore with live bait, you should keep the line under a little tension so the wind or current doesn’t carry it out; on the other hand, line must pay out when a fish bites or it will feel the resistance and drop the bait. To get just the right amount of tension, try this trick: Slip a loop of line under a matchstick held to the foregrip with a rubber band. The match will keep the line from drifting away, but will release the line when a fish hits. If the current or wind is strong, increase the friction on the loop by pulling the line tighter to the rubber band. If there is little current, or if you feel that light-biting fish are dropping the bait because they feel resistance, move the line farther from the rubber band. This way, the slightest tug will pull it free. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 May 2006 at 06:12
	24 may 06 ------------------------------ Most minnow plugs are either floating or sinking. A standard floating minnow plug must be retrieved at moderate speed to prevent it from rising quickly to the surface. Sinking plugs require similar retrieval in order to keep from sinking into the depths. This means that both styles are somewhat limited in their useful applications. There is a third option: the neutrally buoyant plug. This plug will stay suspended in the water without rising to the top or sinking to the bottom. A neutrally buoyant plug can be retrieved much more slowly than floating or sinking plugs, yet it will maintain its depth. Slower retrieves often work better in cool water or when fish are sluggish. It is easy for fishermen to doctor their floating minnow plugs to make them neutrally buoyant: 1. Slip a mono noose over the plug, then pinch on enough shot so the lure barely sinks and remains suspended in a tub of water. Move the noose forward or backward to find the balance point. 2. Drill a hole large enough for the shot just below the center line and directly in line with the position of the noose. 3. Center the shot in the hole, otherwise the plug will tip to one side in the water. Seal both ends of the hole with epoxy glue. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 June 2006 at 09:56
	31 may 06 ------------------------------------------------------------ --------------- Most plugs, spoons and spinners come with treble hooks, but if you’re after trophy-class fish, ordinary trebles may not be strong enough. Big-fish specialists know that a good-sized single hook will sink deeper and hold better than a treble, and no fish is likely to bend or break it. If you’re fishing in waters where there’s a good chance of hooking something big, replace your trebles with a single Siwash hook. A Siwash has a sturdy shank and an extra-long, low-tapering point that penetrates like a needle. Once a fish is on, there is little chance that it will get away. Lures with a Siwash hook offer another advantage: they can be used in waters where treble hooks are banned. If the trebles are attached with split rings, you can simply open the ring, take off the treble and substitute the Siwash. If the ring is welded, you’ll have to cut it off and add a new one. If a lure has two or three trebles, you may want to remove all of them and add just one Siwash where the rear treble was. Changing hooks may disrupt the lure’s balance and ruin its action, so be sure to test it before fishing. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 June 2006 at 09:59
	7 jun 06 ---------------------------------------- It’s widely believed that the best way to set the hook on a fish is to jerk the rod as hard as you can and “cross their eyes.” A solid hook set will catch more fish, but there’s a better way to sink the hooks than jerking wildly, especially if you’re using monofilament line. If you have any slack at all in your line, a fast jerk of the rod will exert practically no force at the end of the line. If you find this hard to believe, try the following experiment. Tie a swivel to your line and have someone squeeze it between his fingers. With the rod in your hand, back off about 50 feet. Let out a little extra line and then jerk as hard as you can. Chances are you won’t pull the swivel from your partner’s fingers. Because of the slack and the stretch of the monofilament, surprisingly little force is transmitted. Here’s a better way to get a powerful hook set. When you feel a bite, point your rod at the fish and immediately reel up slack until you feel weight. Then, set the hook with a quick snap of the wrists. Although this hook-setting method is much less spectacular, it transmits considerably more force for driving in the hook. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 June 2006 at 07:12
	14 jun 06 ------------------------- Many people do not associate outdoor grilling with fish, but the fact is that grilled fish has the same delicious, charred-wood flavor as other grilled meats. Oily fish, such as trout and salmon, are best suited to grilling because they stay moist despite the high-heat cooking process. Lean fish, such as walleye or largemouth bass, tend to get dry unless you select thick cuts. You can grill steaks, fillets or whole fish. On the average, fish should cook for 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Any fish can be grilled, but many freshwater species such as crappie and walleye have delicate meat that breaks up easily and falls through the grate. Always grill these fish in a grilling basket or on a grilling screen or piece of aluminum foil. Fillets or steaks from firm-textured fish such as northern pike and trout can be placed directly on a well-oiled grill. If you place a skin-on fillet or whole fish directly on the grate, the skin may stick. An oil-based marinade not only adds flavor to grilled fish, but also prevents lean fish from drying out and reduces the chance that the meat will stick. Coat he fish with marinade before cooking and baste frequently during the cooking process. Other tips for grilling fish: • Remove hardened grease from your grate with a foaming-type oven cleaner. Keep the grate clean by washing frequently in soapy water. Spray the grate with nonstick vegetable cooking spray after cleaning it thoroughly with a stiff wire brush or coarse steel wool and rinsing it with water. Do not spray the grate over hot coals – the spray may ignite. • Close the lid and adjust the vents to regulate the heat of the grill. You can also increase the heat by lowering the grate or bunching the coals more closely. You can reduce the heat by raising the grate or spreading the coals. • Turn the fish after half the cooking time, using a long-handled spatula. Total cooking time depends on air temperature and wind strength, but seldom exceeds 10 minutes per inch of thickness. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 June 2006 at 19:40
	21 jun 06 ------------------------------------------------------------ -------------- All knots weaken line; the best have little effect on line strength, while the worst cut strength in half. Two favorites, the clinch knot and the improved clinch, are not recommended, because few fishermen tie them consistently well. As a result, these knots often have sharp bends that fracture under stress. Choose knots that are easy to tie correctly, because even the strongest knot is weak if not properly tied. The Trilene knot is unusually strong. It is rated at 90% of the line strength, compared to an average of about 75% for other fishing knots such as the clinch knot. Here are a few tips for tying knots: · Moisten the knot with saliva before snugging it up. This reduces friction and helps to form a knot that is smooth and tight. · Snug up the knot with a smooth, strong pull. Do not be timid about testing it. Better that it breaks while being tied than after hooking a big fish! · Clip the tag end of the line carefully, being sure not to nick the knot. It pays to leave a little extra line, because all knots slip slightly just before they break. · Knots weaken with use. Good fishermen tie new knots before a trip and test their knots frequently. There are many, many knots available for anglers. As mentioned before, the Trilene knot is one of the strongest and most versatile. Below are instructions for tying the Trilene knot: Pass the line through the eye of the hook twice from the same side. Leave a small loop next to the eye. Wrap the free end of the line around the standing line five times. Then, insert the free end through the double loop next to the eye. Snug up with a firm, steady pull on the line and the hook. Edited by TasunkaWitko
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

TasunkaWitko Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Administrator aka The Gipper Joined: 10 June 2003 Location: Chinook Montana Status: Offline Points: 14753	Post Options Post Reply Quote TasunkaWitko Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 22 June 2006 at 06:36
	Fishermen catch plenty of good-sized northern pike in the shallow, weedy bays during the spring, but when the water warms up, they get nothing but “hammer handles” in these areas. The lack of big pike in the summer has led to the mistaken belief among some anglers that pike lose their teeth or have sore mouths this time of year and don’t feed. The truth is, however, that they are feeding more than ever. The main reason for the scarcity of big pike in summer is that anglers aren’t fishing deep enough. As pike get larger, they prefer cooler water. In some cases, they will congregate around spring holes, artesian wells, the mouths of trout streams or other specific point sources of cold water; however, if there are no point sources, pike have no choice but to go deep. If there is adequate oxygen in the lake depths, they’ll go as deep as 50 feet and occasionally down to 100. Lake trout anglers sometimes catch big pike. At these depths, they’re generally feeding on good sized baitfish, such as whitefish or ciscoes, and you’ll have to use similar-sized baitfish to catch them. A good rule of thumb is to use a baitfish that is about one-fourth the length of this northern you plan to catch; thus, you would use an 9-inch baitfish to catch a 36-inch northern, and so on.
	TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana Helfen, Wehren, Heilen Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen