01 feb 06

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Due to a couple of emails asking for clarification on last week’s tip, I’ve
got a couple of pictures here which will hopefully explain better than
words.

Modifying the jointed-minnow plug:

To rig a worm or creature Texas-style:

1. Insert the point of the hook into the head end.

2. Push the hook about 1/2 inch into the head, then out the side.

3. Continue pushing the hook through the worm, leaving only the eye
protruding.

4. Twist the hook one-half turn.

5. Push the hook into the worm until the point almost penetrates the
opposite side.

The rigged worm should hang straight with no kinks or twists.

Southern bass fishermen use a Texas-rigged worm to catch large-mouth
bass with tremendous success. It is safe to say that this is among the
most popular, if not the most popular rig for fishing a plastic worm.

Up here in north central Montana, the bass fishing is limited, but the
Texas-rigged worm can still be useful in applications such as this lure
modification. It might also be worth it to try a salamander or other
creature rigged Texas-style when fishing for northern pike or walleye.
     

8 feb 06

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Ice fishermen often end the day with a good supply of healthy, surplus
minnows. Rather than carry them home or throw them away, you can
keep them beneath the ice at your fish house. Here’s how to store them
so they stay healthy for days and are easy to retrieve on your next trip:



Pour the minnows into a perforated coffee can attached to a 6-foot rope
with a stick tied to the other end. Lower the can down a hole drilled just
outside the house, as close as possible to the ice fishing hole inside the
house. The stick will keep the end of the rope from dropping into the
hole. Leave the minnows in the can and Let the rope freeze into the ice.

On your next ice fishing trip, simply retrieve the minnows by sliding a
long hook made from a coat hanger down your ice fishing hole. Snag the
rope, hoist the can into the fish house, and pour the minnows into your
bait bucket. When you’re done for the day, sink the minnows in the can
back down the fishing hole.

15 feb 06

-------------------

Spinners and lures with spinner-type blades have a dual appeal that
accounts for their success in both clear and murky waters. In clear water,
gamefish can spot the flash of the revolving blade from a distance; in
murky water, they use their lateral line sense to pinpoint the vibration
from the turning blade.

Another reason for the success of these lures is the relative ease of using
them. They will produce fish with a simple, straight retrieve. Further,
when a fish strikes a spinner, it often hooks itself.

Used properly, spinner-type lures will catch almost any kind of freshwater
gamefish. These lures will work at any time of year, but are especially
effective when extremely cold or warm water makes fish lethargic and
reluctant to chase anything moving too fast. Most spinner blades will turn
even at very slow retrieve speeds.

Different blades have different amounts of water resistance. A broad
blade rotates at a greater angle to the shaft and thus has more resistance
than a narrow one. A large blade has more resistance than a smaller one
of the same shape.

The greater the resistance, the shallower the the lure will run at a given
speed. Generally, wide blades are best suited to slow retrieves and light
current; narrow ones to fast retrieves and swift current.

Popular blades include 1) Colorado; 2) Indiana; 3) French; 4) willow leaf; 5) fluted, which reflects light in all directions; 6) sonic blade, which spins at high speed; 7) scissor-style blade, which adjusts according to needs and conditions; and 8) buzz blade, which sputters when retrieved on the surface.

Angle of rotation varies with different styles of blades. Colorado-type blades (above) turn at an angle to the shaft approximately 50 degrees; Indiana and French blades, about 40 degrees; and willow leaf blades, about 25 degrees.

22 feb 06

------------------

Quick Tip For The Week

Jig Basics:

Many expert fishermen consider jigs to be the most consistently
productive of all artificial lures. They work for a variety of species under
almost any conditions.

A jig is simply a piece of lead, tin or other metal with a hook molded onto
it. A dress-ing of hair, feathers, tinsel or soft plastic generally conceals
the hook. Many anglers also tip jigs with worms, minnows, leaches and
other natural bait.

Use the lightest line practi-cal for the species and fishing conditions if
your line is too heavy, the lure will sink too slowly and not stay at the de-
sired depth when retrieved; also, strikes will be more diffi-cult to detect.
Be sure to use a wire leader when fishing for northern pike, pickerel or
mus-kellunge.

When selecting jigging lures, the main consideration is weight. Your
selection must be a compromise based on the type of fish, water depth,
cur-rent speed and wind velocity. For panfish, most anglers pre-fer lures
of no more than 1/8 ounce. For mid-sized gamefish such as walleye and
bass, 1/4-1/2-ounce jigs normally work best. For larger gamefish, lures
of 1 ounce or more are usually most productive.

The lure must be heavy enough to reach the desired depth, but not so
heavy that it sinks too fast. Fish usually prefer a slowly-falling jig to one
plummeting toward bot-tom. As a general rule, allow 1/8 ounce for every
10 feet of water. For example, a lure of at least 1/4 ounce would be
needed to reach bottom in water 20 feet deep. In slow current, however,
the same lure would only reach a depth of about 15 feet. As the current
becomes faster, the weight of the lure needed to reach bottom increases.

Fishing with jigs:

The most common way to fish a jig is to cast to a likely spot, then retrieve
the lure in short hops along bottom. An-other effective method is to jig
vertically in tight spots or while drifting with the wind or current. When
fish are sus-pended, you can count your jig down to different depths
until you find the most productive level.

Catching fish on jigs re-quires a high level of concen-tration, a fine-
tuned sense of feel and quick reflexes. If you fail to pay constant
attention, if you are not accustomed to rec-ognizing subtle strikes, or if
you do not set the hook imme-diately, chances are you will go home with
an empty stringer. You can improve your jig-fishing skills by following
these guidelines:

• Keep your line taut at all times, especially as the jig sinks; but the line
should not be so tight that it inter-feres with the action of the jig.

• Stay alert for any twitch or sideways movement of the line.

• Watch your line carefully to make sure the jig sinks normally after the
cast and when jigging. If it stops sinking unexpectedly, a fish has
probably grabbed it.

• Set the hook at the slight-est indication of a strike. Do not hesitate; a
fish can pick up a jig and expel it in an instant.

Always tie your jig directly to the line, without snaps, swivels or other
connectors. A loop not such as the Duncan loop will allow the jig to swing
freely, maximizing its action. When fishing for northern pike, pickerel or
muskellunge, attach a striker to your jig using a twist-melt connection or
a haywire twist.

Most serious jig fishermen carry a jig box stocked with a wide variety of
heads and dressings for different species and situations. Often a head
weighing even 1/8 ounce more or less than the one you are using can
make a big differ-ence.

Popular head designs include: 1) ball, which is versatile and fast-sinking;
2) keel, which slices through the water and is ideal for fast current or
deep water; 3) bullet, which is similar to the keel but snags less; 4) slider,
flattened horizontally so that it sinks slowly and glides through water; 5)
mushroom, designed for use with soft plastic tails; 6) banana, which
points the tail up, making the jig ideal for vertical jigging; 7) stand-up,
which has a high-riding hook and is fairly snag-resistant; 8) pyramid,
similar to the banana and stand-up; 9) lip style, giving the jig a wiggling
action; 10) pony with a spinner for extra flash; and 11) propeller, which
adds flash and vibration.

Cast your jig past the “fish zone,” then 1) pay out line as the jig sinks.
When the jig hits bottom, 2) your line will go slack. Tighten your line
slightly, then 3) twitch the rod tip to make the jig hop forward. As the jig
sinks, 4) lower the rod tip slowly to keep the line taut. Keeping a taut line
at this point is the key to success with this technique. Continue to hop
the jig this way until you can no longer maintain contact with bottom.

Always use a steel leader when fishing for Esocids, which include
northern
pike, muskellunge and pickerel.   The razor-sharp edges on Esocid teeth
are
apparent in this electron microscope photograph. The teeth pierce and
cut
prey better than walleye teeth (inset), which are enarly round. This also
explains why pike and muskies can easily bit off monofilament line, while
walleyes can’t. Esocids are the only freshwater fish that require steel
leaders,
which are unnecessary for any other freshwater fishing.

Look for early-season walleyes on rock piles in water less than 10 feet
deep. The rocks absorb the sunlight and warm the surrounding water.
Most of the lake is still cold, so walleyes are attracted to these zones of
warmer water. The large rocks also cast shadows where the walleyes can
hide and avoid bright sunlight.

These areas appeal to walleyes for another reason: the warmth attracts
invertebrates, which attract baitfish on which the walleyes feed.
The difference in temperature may be only a degree or two, but it is
enough to make quite a difference.

Some areas along shore are warmer than others, so they draw more
walleyes. Water in a sheltered bay, for instance, warms faster than water
along a straight shoreline because the wind can’t mix it with deeper,
cooler water.

Bays are obvious spots to check, but another type of spot that isn’t so
obvious becomes evident if you have a hydrographic (contour) map of the
lake. Indentations in the breakline (black arrow) function much like bays,
but are not obvious from looking at the shoreline. Sunlight heats the
surface layer of the lake, and if the wind (white arrow) pushes the warm
water toward shore, it will collect in the depression. An indentation on the
downwind side of the lake may have water that is 10 degrees warmer
than nearby shallows.

5 apr 06

----------------------------

When jig fishing for walleyes, it is often productive to tip the jig with a
minnow or other live bait. The problem with this is that walleyes tend to
strike at the tail, eliminating any chance of getting hooked. This situation
is called a short strike.

When jig fishing, check your minnow for teeth marks or ripped skin if you
had a short strike but failed to hook the fish. Damaged skin on the rear
half of the minnow means that walleyes are striking short and that you
should add a stinger. A stinger is a small treble hook on a short length of
mono that is attached to the jig and inserted into the tail end of the
minnow (or other bait).

You can attach a stinger to the bend of the jig’s hook; alternately, you can
also attach the stinger at the eye of the jig, leaving the bend of the hook
free so that you can change jig tails or dressings without removing the
stinger.

Any knot can be used to attach the stinger, if you want it to be a fixed
length. If you are using minnows or other bait of different lengths, you
can learn to tie on an adjustable stinger that allows you to change the
length of the mono. To do this:

1. Tie a size 10 treble hook to a length of mono with a Duncan loop (see
below).

2. Attach the loose end to the bend of the jig hook using any fishing
knot.

3. Shorten the mono to fit a small minnow by sliding the knot closer to
the jog hook.

4. Lengthen the mono to fit a larger minnow by sliding the knot toward
the stinger. If the loop closes, you can reopen it with your fingernails.

To tie a Duncan loop,




The normal strength of mono used is 6- or 8-pound; the lighter the
better, so that the minnow can move freely. Sometimes, even this light
mono will inhibit the action of the bait; the line can also wrap around the
minnow, cinching it into a half-circle and ruining its action. If this
becomes a problem, try an alternate method:

Tie a smaller (size 14 or 16) treble hook to the bend of a hook with s
short length of stiff or hard line (any knot can be used), 15-pound test or
heavier. The stiff line holds the treble straight out behind the jig, so you
don’t need to hook it into the bait. The bait moves freely, as if the stinger
wasn’t there at all; however, when a fish nips at the tail, it gets hooked.

For top quality flavor, all fish should be field dressed as quickly as
possible by removing the gills, guts and kidney, all of which spoil fast in a
dead fish.

Field dress fish that are to be cooked whole or steaked. It is not necessary
to field dress fish if they are to be filleted within an hour or two. Scale fish
that are to be cooked with their skin on. Scaling fish is quick and easy
with a scaler, though a dull knife or spoon can be used. Wet the fish and
scrape off the scales, working from tail to head. This job should be done
outdoors, because scales can fly in all directions; or, line the kitchen sink
with newspapers and scale as carefully as possible.

When field dressing and scaling at home, place your catch on several
layers of newspapers to ease cleanup. Before field dressing, wipe the fish
with paper towels to remove slime. This makes it easier to hold the fish
firmly. If you puncture the guts, wash the body cavity with cold water. Use
water sparingly, because it softens the fish.

The head can be removed after dressing. Paper towels are excellent for
wiping off scales and blood spots, and for drying fish.

Field dressing is easier if you have the right tools, and if you clean the
fish in a convenient location. Practice different cleaning techniques until
you can clean fish quickly and with little waste.

To field dress trout and small salmon:

• Slice the throat connection, the tissue that connects the lower jaw and
the gill membrane.
• Insert the knife in the vent, run the blade tip up along the stomach to
the gills, taking care not to puncture the intestines.
• Push your thumb into the throat; pull gills and guts toward the tail.
Scrape out bloodline with a spoon, then rinse out cavity.

To field dress other fish:

• Remove gills by cutting the throat connection, then along both sides of
the arch so the gills pull out easily.
• Insert the knife in the vent, run the blade up to the gills. Pull the guts
and gills out carefully.
•Cut the membrane along the backbone. Scrape out the kidney or
bloodline underneath the membrane, then rinse out cavity.

3 may 06

-------------------------------

The fillets of many kinds of fish contain a row of small bones, called
epipleural ribs, that lie right above the rob cage. Here’s an easy way to
get rid of those bones: 

Remove the row of bones after first locating it with your finger. Slice through the fillet along one side of the bones for the length of the body cavity. Then slice along the other side, forming a thin strip (dotted line) that you can lift out, leaving a completely boneless fillet.

Members of the pike family have delicious, flaky meat; but the Y-bones (above) are bothersome enough that some people refuse to eat these fish. Although there are a couple of ways to remove these bones, most fishermen don’t know how, so they are forced to pick them out at the table. Here’s one easy way to make boneless fillets from pike and pickerel. Then you can forget about Y-bones and enjoy your meal.

Cut down behind the head. Turn the blade toward the tail and run it along the backbone (dotted line). Slice upward just ahead of the dorsal fin, cutting away the back fillet.

Loosen the skin along the edge of the back fillet so it will lie flat on the cutting surface. Now you can skin the fillet as you would any other.

Remove the side fillets by first cutting down to the backbone, once behind the head, and a second time ahead of the dorsal fin (arrows). Feel along the back to find the Y-bones (row of dots). With the fish on its side, insert your knife just above the Y-bones and cut away a fillet (shown) so the Y-bones remain attached to the fish. Remove the fillet from the other side in the same way. Skin the fillets.

Cut off the fillets from each side of the tail section by slicing along the backbone. There are no Y-bones in this part of the fish. Skin the tail fillets. You now have five boneless fillets.

17 may 06

-------------------------------------

When bottom fishing form shore with live bait, you should keep the line under a little tension so the wind or current doesn’t carry it out; on the other hand, line must pay out when a fish bites or it will feel the resistance and drop the bait. To get just the right amount of tension, try this trick:

Slip a loop of line under a matchstick held to the foregrip with a rubber band. The match will keep the line from drifting away, but will release the line when a fish hits. If the current or wind is strong, increase the friction on the loop by pulling the line tighter to the rubber band. If there is little current, or if you feel that light-biting fish are dropping the bait because they feel resistance, move the line farther from the rubber band. This way, the slightest tug will pull it free.

31 may 06

------------------------------------------------------------ ---------------

Most plugs, spoons and spinners come with treble hooks, but if you’re after trophy-class fish, ordinary trebles may not be strong enough. Big-fish specialists know that a good-sized single hook will sink deeper and hold better than a treble, and no fish is likely to bend or break it. If you’re fishing in waters where there’s a good chance of hooking something big, replace your trebles with a single Siwash hook. A Siwash has a sturdy shank and an extra-long, low-tapering point that penetrates like a needle. Once a fish is on, there is little chance that it will get away. Lures with a Siwash hook offer another advantage: they can be used in waters where treble hooks are banned.

If the trebles are attached with split rings, you can simply open the ring, take off the treble and substitute the Siwash. If the ring is welded, you’ll have to cut it off and add a new one. If a lure has two or three trebles, you may want to remove all of them and add just one Siwash where the rear treble was.

7 jun 06

----------------------------------------

It’s widely believed that the best way to set the hook on a fish is to jerk the rod as hard as you can and “cross their eyes.” A solid hook set will catch more fish, but there’s a better way to sink the hooks than jerking wildly, especially if you’re using monofilament line.

If you have any slack at all in your line, a fast jerk of the rod will exert practically no force at the end of the line. If you find this hard to believe, try the following experiment. Tie a swivel to your line and have someone squeeze it between his fingers. With the rod in your hand, back off about 50 feet. Let out a little extra line and then jerk as hard as you can. Chances are you won’t pull the swivel from your partner’s fingers. Because of the slack and the stretch of the monofilament, surprisingly little force is transmitted.

Here’s a better way to get a powerful hook set. When you feel a bite, point your rod at the fish and immediately reel up slack until you feel weight. Then, set the hook with a quick snap of the wrists.

Although this hook-setting method is much less spectacular, it transmits considerably more force for driving in the hook.

21 jun 06

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All knots weaken line; the best have little effect on line strength, while the worst cut strength in half. Two favorites, the clinch knot and the improved clinch, are not recommended, because few fishermen tie them consistently well. As a result, these knots often have sharp bends that fracture under stress. Choose knots that are easy to tie correctly, because even the strongest knot is weak if not properly tied.

The Trilene knot is unusually strong. It is rated at 90% of the line strength, compared to an average of about 75% for other fishing knots such as the clinch knot.

Here are a few tips for tying knots:

·         Moisten the knot with saliva before snugging it up. This reduces friction and helps to form a knot that is smooth and tight.

·         Snug up the knot with a smooth, strong pull. Do not be timid about testing it. Better that it breaks while being tied than after hooking a big fish!

·         Clip the tag end of the line carefully, being sure not to nick the knot. It pays to leave a little extra line, because all knots slip slightly just before they break.

·         Knots weaken with use. Good fishermen tie new knots before a trip and test their knots frequently.

There are many, many knots available for anglers. As mentioned before, the Trilene knot is one of the strongest and most versatile. Below are instructions for tying the Trilene knot:

12 jul 06 

------------------------------------------------------------ ----

Sharp points penetrate better and catch more fish than dull ones. Most fishermen do not bother to sharpen their fish hooks. When a point breaks or becomes dull, they simply tie on a new hook. But a new hook is not necessarily a sharp hook.

Cheap hooks are usually made of soft, low-grade steel and are poorly sharpened. Even a new, high-quality hook dulls quickly, or the tip of the point bends or breaks when dragged over rocks or rough debris. Examine your hook frequently to see if it needs sharpening.

Many anglers carry honing stones or flat files in their tackle boxes for touching up hook points. The usual sharpening method is to hone the point to a round, conical shape. Do not make the point too thin because it may break when setting the hook into a hard-mouthed fish.

A method that is becoming more popular is called "triangular sharpening." A point with three cutting edges penetrates better than a cone-shaped point.

Triangular Sharpening Method

Flatten the outside edge of the point using a hook file. Begin filing at the barb and work toward the point of the hook.

File one side of the point, beginning at the barb. Remove enough metal so the side is flat and slanted toward the inside of your point.

 Turn the hook and file the other side of the point in the same manner. When completed, the point should be three-sided.

These hooks, magnified 15 times actual size, include (top to bottom) a new hook, a hook that has been fished on a rocky bottom and a hook sharpened by the triangular sharpening method.

26 jul 06

--------------------------------

Fish cooked over an open fire is delicious; however, they are easily
overcooked when the fire is too hot. Keep the fire small and the heat
under control. The best woods are hardwoods such as maple, birch,
apple, hickory, beech or other varieties. They burn well and give fish a
pleasant flavor. Softwoods such as pine, spruce and hemlock impart an
unpleasant taste.

Cook whole fish over an open fire with the head and tail intact to help
seal in juices. Keeping the skin on a fillet holds it in one piece and shields
it from intense heat. If the skin is removed, protect the fillet with
aluminum foil cut to size.

How To Cook Fish On Grate Over An Open Fire

• Brush the grate and fish with oil, melted margarine or butter. Lean fish
need more basting than oily fish, such as large trout.

• Spread the hot coals. Put the fish on the grate when all flame has died
out. Place fillets skin side down, or skinless fillets on foil cut to size.

• Cook fish on one side, turn; baste with oil, margarine or butter. Do not
turn fillets with skin. Cook the second side. Cooking time varies due to
many factors, but a good rule of thumb would be 5 minutes per inch of
thickness for the first side, slightly less for the second side. For whole
fish, cook second side slightly longer than first side.

• Test the fish for doneness by probing with a fork; insert into the
thickest part of fish and twist the tines. Flesh should be opaque and flake
easily. Cook longer, if necessary.

• If you need to protect fish from rain or cool weather, test the fish with a
hood of heavy-duty aluminum foil. A tent also reflects the heat.

Other Tips For Open Fire Cooking

• A small fire is important. If it is too large, fish will burn on the outside,
but will be raw on the inside. Gather an ample supply of dry twigs and
add them to the fire at regular intervals to provide even heat.

• Hot coals are best for open fire cooking with a grate. Build a large fire
and let it burn down. Start to cook when the flames are out. Spread the
glowing coals roughly into the shape of the fish.

• Steam fish by wrapping securely in greased, heavy-duty aluminum foil.
Place the package on hot coals or grate. Turn fish one or two times and
check often for doneness.

Roast small whole fish over an open fire by impaling it on the sharpened
end of a sturdy, green hardwood stick. Cook until flesh at backbone
flakes easily. Cool slightly and eat in a corn-on-the-cob fashion.

16 aug 06

------------------------------------------

Whitetail Deer

If a whitetail doe stops every 20 to 30 yards to look back, chances are
that she is checking on a buck somewhere behind her. Patience may
reveal a trophy.


Mule Deer

To discover the location of Mule deer that might be bedded down nearby,
blow several loud blasts on a predator call. For some reason, mulies will
stand up to investigate the sound. At that point, you can either shoot or
begin a stalk as circumstances warrant.


Pronghorn Antelope

Pronghorns are among the most curious of wild animals. To lure
pronghorns within shooting distance, find a good hiding spot, and then
wave a white handkerchief in the air.


Elk

When hunting elk, it is important to understand how wind currents move
in mountainous areas. As the day progresses, air warms and rises up the
sides of the mountain. At day’s end, the air cools and flows back down.
As a result, you should begin your morning hunt at a high elevation so
that your scent is not carried to the elk. Toward evening, concentrate
your hunting at lower elevations.


Cottontail Rabbit

When you first flush a cottontail, it runs in an erratic pattern while it tries
to find a familiar trail. Instead of shooting while the rabbit is zig-zagging,
wait until it runs on a straighter course.

23 aug 06

-------------------------------------------------------

Beer and bratwurst are traditionally the essence of German gastronomy, but there is certainly more to German cooking than that. There is a flavor to Germany’s food that is unlike that of any other country. German cooking has an unmistakable taste that depends on highly-flavored ingredients combined in original ways, with less spice and garlic used than in other European countries.

The German hausfrau is economically-minded even in today’s affluent society. Not every meal contains meat, and the humble potato is used in many interesting ways – combined with apple, pears, grated raw into pancakes or cooked with caraway seeds. The main meal is usually served in the middle of the day and is either a meat dish or a high-protein cheese or lentil dish followed by a sweet or fruit. Supper is kept quite simple; a selection of cold meats, sausages and salads, and a variety of breads and rolls.

On special occasions, traditional meals are cooked; perhaps the most famous of these is sauerkraut, cooked in white wine, cider, beer or champagne or flavored with Kirsch and served with frankfurters, pickled pork, garlic sausage and new boiled potatoes. 

Next week, we’ll take a look at the regional nature of German food, and how the different regions of Germany directly influence the cooking there.

30 aug 06

-------------------------------------------

In Germany, food is a matter of geography. German cooking remains strongly regional in character, as is to be expected in a large country which until recently (historically speaking) was composed of dozens of independent states. The regional specialties of the country tend to be dictated by what has always been traditionally grown, raised or caught in the area. The cuisine is the product of both a healthy, well-run agriculture and the good housekeeping that is a part of the German character.

The most important element of influence in the North is the sea. This is Germany’s only coast and it supplies all her sea fish. Germans love fish! They marinate and pickle the prolific herring to produce world-famous rollmops, and prepare particularly delicious smoked eel and buckling. The North also boasts two of the most sophisticated cities in Germany: Hamburg and Berlin. Hamburg gave birth to the hamburger, known in Germany as Deutsches Beefsteak. The culinary specialties of Berlin are many; pickled cucumbers, hot plum doughnuts and wonderful cakes.

From the center of Germany comes the delicious Westphalia ham, comparable to Italy’s prosciutto, especially when served with slices of nutty pumpernickel. 

Frankfurt in the East must always be associated with its famous sausage and for its light “green sauce,” made from chopped herbs, oil, vinegar and sugar. It is also the home of the potato dumpling, fruit tarts and fragrant honey cakes; and from the influence of its Polish neighbors comes beer soup and some delicious carp recipes.

To the South, dumplings give way to tiny spaetzle and the famous Himmel und Erde – potatoes cooked with apples. The well-known strudel of Bavaria is often filled with savory fish or cabbage mixtures as well as the conventional fruit.

6 sep 06

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Home-pickled fish are delicious. They are as good as, if not better than, the pickled herring sold in the grocery stores. Pickled fish can be eaten with crackers or on its own, and is usually the first item to disappear from the appetizer tray.

Practically any kind of fish can be pickled, but small fish with delicate flesh generally work better than large fish with coarse meat. Bony fish, such as northern pike, are often pickled because the acid in the pickling liquid helps dissolve small bones. Remove heavy rib bones and, if you wish, remove the skin and lateral line. Cut the fish into bite-sized chunks, 1 to 1-1/2 inches.

Fresh, uncooked fish should be frozen for at least 48 hours before pickling, in case the meat contains tapeworms. Seldom is this a problem, but the broadfish tapeworm, found mainly in Canada, can be transmitted to humans and produce symptoms much like intestinal flu. If a recipe recommends cooking fish in the brine, there is no need to freeze the meat first.

There are dozens of different pickling techniques. Generally, the fish is soaked in a vinegar/salt brine and then in a pickling liquid consisting of vinegar, sugar and seasonings. Total brining and pickling time varies from 4-20 days, depending on the recipe. When brining, keep fish submerged in the brine by placing a plate over the fish and a heavy object on the plate. This ensures that all of the fish is pickled.

Use high-quality soft water in the brine solution; too much iron or sulfide adversely affects the flavor of fish. Buy bottled water, if necessary. The brine calls for pickling salt because table salt has bitter impurities that discolor the fish and affect the taste. Use a good-quality, distilled white vinegar that has at least 5% acetic acid content. Vinegar slows spoilage.

Normally, the fish are packed in canning jars (with two-part sealing lids. Pickling containers can also include glass bowls or peanut butter or mayonnaise jars. Cover containers tightly with plastic wrap or non-corrodible lids.

White onion, lemon and/or pimiento slices in the jars add flavor and color. The sugar and spices contribute little to fish preservation of fish and are often adjusted to suit taste. Whole cloves add a pleasant flavor. You can also make “cream style” pickled fish by draining off the brine before serving, then adding a sour cream and sugar mixture (1 tablespoon sugar to 1 cup sour cream).

13 sep 06

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To preserve meat, Native Americans and early settlers would hang thinly-sliced meat over a smoky fire until it was dry. It could then be stored or carried long distances without spoiling.

Almost any big game meat without tendons, fat or sinews can be used to make jerky. The exceptions would be bear, boar or javelina, which must be cooked thoroughly. Cut meat with the grain for a chewy texture, or across the grain for a more-tender jerky. Slice meat carefully in order to ensure uniform strips. Meat is also easier to slice partially frozen.

There are literally hundreds of jerky recipes. Some are as simple as sprinkling salt and pepper on the meat; others involve complex marinades and exotic seasonings. Personally, I prefer some sort of marinade, no matter how simple. To me, marinades allow the meat to be thoroughly and evenly flavored. I would also recommend the use of a curing salt such as Morton Tender Quick mix when preparing jerky to help prevent bacterial growth.

Combine marinade ingredients in a large, nonmetallic mixing bowl or gallon jar. Stir to dissolve seasonings and salt cure. Add meat strips; cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least 24 hours, stirring occasionally.

Jerky can also be made from ground game; in fact, I often find it beneficial to simply grind all leftover venison in my freezer each year for use as burger or in making jerky. When using ground meat for jerky, simply mix ingredients into the meat. Be sure to add a cup or so of water to the ground meat in order to help distribute the flavor and aid the meat in binding together. After 24 hours, roll out seasoned meat flat between two sheets of waxed paper and cut into strips, or shoot it out of a jerky gun.

Traditionally, jerky is smoked, but it can also be flavored with liquid smoke and dried in a cool oven or dehydrator. If using smoker, follow manufacturer’s directions for best results. If preparing jerky in the oven, add 2 teaspoons liquid smoke flavoring to the marinade, if smoke flavor is desired. Heat oven to lowest possible temperature setting, propping oven door open with a wooden spoon.

Deciding when jerky has dried enough can be a matter of very personal taste. My recommendation is to dry it at least until it is leathery and not brittle, then continue drying as long as your preferences determine. Some like their jerky to be very dry to the point of brittleness; this also tends to last longer. Others prefer a chewy jerky that will not break like a twig. As with most things subject to personal preference, the optimum is probably somewhere in-between.

20 sep 06

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Fresh big game sausage is surprisingly easy to make at home. All of the recipes to be printed can be used as uncased sausages and require no special equipment other than a food processor or meat grinder.

You can use any big game cut to make sausage; the meat does not have to be tender. The best choices are cuts that might be tough if cooked whole, such as flank, shoulder or brisket. Scraps left over after cutting up a big game animal work very well.

Fatty pork is often added to the trimmed game meat to make sausage. If you prefer sausage game meat only, you still need to add fat. Ask your butcher for hard pork fat from the outside of the loin. Be sure to specify hard pork back fat when you order; tell the butcher what you’ll be using it for to be sure you get the right thing. Back fat is not the same as fatback, which is fat that has been salted and dried.

A ratio of one part fat to three or four parts game meat produces a juicy, flavorful sausage. To produce the best texture, keep the fat and meat very cold during chopping or grinding. Avoid substituting lard for hard fat; lard is too soft and will produce a greasy sausage.

Keep meat grinder blades sharp when grinding meat for sausage. Dull blades squeeze juices from the meat, resulting in dry, less-flavorful sausage. If your grinder slows down during use, or if the texture of the meat suddenly becomes fine and mushy, partially disassemble the grinder and check the blades and plate. Sinew and other tough material can get caught in the mechanism, causing poor performance. Clean the blade and plate, then continue.

Experiment with small batches to find a sausage recipe you like, then double or triple the recipe to make a big batch. It’s best to under-season sausage somewhat, then fry up a small patty and taste it. Add any additional seasonings or salt if necessary.

In conjunction with last week’s Quick Tip, here are a few pointers to keep in mind when making your own sausage:

·        Wash all equipment thoroughly in very hot, soapy water prior to making sausages. Rinse and refrigerate equipment until cool before using. Wash hands and scrub fingernails with nail brush. Scrub countertops and cutting boards with soapy water and rinse well.

·        Keep meat as cold as possible during sausage making. If meat is to be ground twice, chill it thoroughly and wash and refrigerate grinder between grindings. When working with a large batch of meat, grind only a small portion at a time and leave the rest refrigerated.

·        Grind lean meat separately from fat for juicier fresh sausages. Cut fat into chunks, partially freeze it, then grind finer than the meat. Mix ground meat and ground fat together. This way, the fat will be more-evenly distributed and there won’t be any large pieces in your sausage.

·        Sprinkle mixed, dry seasonings over coarsely ground meat. Mix well and refrigerate overnight to blend flavors. Mix with liquid called for in recipe, then grind through finer plate and stuff immediately. If using already-ground meat, mix dry seasonings with liquid before adding to meat.

·        Use a cure for all sausages that will be smoked to prevent botulism, a type of food poisoning. For a fresh sausage recipe that makes 5 pounds, substitute 8 level teaspoons of Morton TenderQuick mix for every 5 1/2 level teaspoons of canning/pickling salt; or, add 1 level teaspoon of Insta Cure No. 1 (formerly Prague Powder No. 1) to the salt already in recipe.

04 OCT 06

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Any of the previous, current and future recipes in our sausage series can also be used to make cased sausages. You’ll need casings, available from some butcher shops, and a sausage stuffer. Follow the instructions that come with the stuffer. Cased sausages can be cold-smoked for 2-3 hours to add additional flavor.

 

Synthetic casings, which are edible, are available in 22mm for breakfast-sized links and 32 mm for bratwurst-sized sausages.

 

Natural casings include lamb casings (22-24mm), which are used for breakfast links, and hog casings (32-35mm), which are used for Italian, Polish and bratwurst-style sausage. A butcher shop that specializes in sausages may sell you a hank; a bundle of casings packed in salt. You can also order casings from specialty stores.

 

The casing you select is usually based on the sausage you’ll be making. Natural casings are usually used for fresh sausages, since they are tender and edible. Collagen casings are available for both fresh and smoked sausages in sizes for small links or bratwurst. They are easier to use than natural casings, but they don’t hold a twist well and may need to be hand-tied at the ends.

 

Next week’s Quick Tip will conclude our series on sausage with specific instructions for preparing and stuffing natural casings.

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TasunkaWitko - Chinook, Montana

Helfen, Wehren, Heilen
Die Wahrheit wird euch frei machen

11 OCT 06

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To prepare and stuff natural sausage casings:

Spread out a hank of salted casings carefully on clean work surface. Find the beginning of the hank, and gently pull one length out until it is free, being careful not to twist the remainder of the lengths. Remove as many lengths as you need. Re-salt and freeze the remainder for future use.

Open one end of the casings, and slip the end over a faucet. Hold your hand over the casing to keep it from slipping off. Run a steady, medium stream of cold water through the casing until it is completely filled and the water runs through. Continue flushing for a few minutes. Rinse the outside of the casing.

Place the rinsed casing in a large measuring cup filled with cold water after draining out all water and air from the casing. Let one end of each casing hang over the edge of the cup. Rinse remaining casings, adding them to the measuring cup, until you’ve rinsed all the casings you will need.

Slip one end of a rinsed, wet casing over the sausage-stuffing horn; push until end of the casings is at the back end of the horn. Continue pushing until the entire length is gathered onto the horn. Pull the casing forward until about one inch hangs over the open end of the horn.

Turn the crank of the sausage stuffer slowly until some of the sausage mixture some of the sausage mixture comes out of the horn. Tie off the end of the casing with kitchen string, pinching off a small bit of meat. The pinching helps eliminate air at the end of the link. Continue cranking until sausage is desired length; have a helper guide the link away from the horn.

Twist the first link several times; then crank until a second link is formed. Support both ends with one hand while using the other to keep the casings on the horn until it is firmly filled. Be sure to let the casing slip off easily before it overfills and breaks. Continue twisting and filling; keep casings on horn wet so they slip off without sticking.

18 oct 06

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From Pronghorn Hunting, by Toby Bridges and Don Oster

Even the most experienced antelope hunters can have trouble field judging trophy animals. Once on the ground, pronghorn bucks have provided the successful hunter with plenty of surprises, both pleasant and not so pleasant, as the measuring tape reveals the truth. So-called “ground shrinkage is reasonably common with all big game animals, but tends to occur more where antelope trophies are concerned.

Hunters who aspire to bag a trophy buck must be have the dedication, time and patience to inspect, stalk and pass up many good animals until they fine one truly exceptional head. The hunter must be prepared to carry home an unused tag if waiting for the right opportunity results in no antelope taken.

Following are a few tips to more-accurately judge pronghorns in the field. These tips should give you some insight to the class of buck you are looking at through your optics.

·        The most difficult judgment is the length of the main beam, due mostly to extreme variations in their curvature and shape. Bucks with nearly straight horns often appear bigger than a buck with very inward- or backward-hooked tips. Begin to determine horn length by comparing the length of the horn to the length of the ears. The average adult pronghorn buck’s ear – from base to tip – generally measures 5-1/2 to 6 inches in length. Provided you are looking at a buck with horns that appear to be 2-1/2 ear-lengths long, you’ve found a really good buck with horns of around 15 inches. A good cross-check is to establish where the bottom of the prong is in relation to the tip of the ear. If it sits well above and there is as much main beam above the prong as below, you’re onto a trophy with real potential.

·        Judge prongs by ear length. If the prong, measured from the rear of the main beam to the tip, appears to be nearly equal to the length of the ear, you’ve found a buck with great prongs.

·        An antelope’s eyeball is approximately 2 inches in diameter. Horn bases that are 1-1/2 eyeballs wide indicate a very good buck that is probably well-within trophy territory.

·        The area from the base of the horn to the tip of a mature buck’s nose regularly measures about 8 inches. The measurement can be used to reinforce estimates of both horn and prong length.

·        Time in the field is your best training for quick and accurate judging. Most of the time, a buck doesn’t stand broadside and pose, waiting for you to size him up.

25 oct 06

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From The Art of Hunting Big Game in North America, By Jack O’Connor

[T]here is only one way to train the eyes in the judgment of big game trophies – and that is by seeing many sets of horns and antlers and by intelligently evaluating them….

Anyone can read about horns and antlers until he gets spots before his eyes, but unless he has seen and compared many heads and knows what an exceptional head looks like, evaluating trophies is a laborious business.

The first time anyone hunts a new species, he simply cannot judge the heads unless he has done a good deal of homework…. Reading helps, but seeing is the important thing….

To me, one of the rules of trophy hunting is that to the man who knows something about the various animals, the really outstanding head knocks his eye out. He doesn’t have to look at it hard and long to know it is good, just as a young man would not have to study a beautiful girl for some time to realize she was pretty. The heads that do not turn out well are the ones the hunter thinks about, hopes are good, tries to make grow, looks for an excuse to take.

[W]hen a hunt is planned for any…trophy, the would-be…hunter should carefully study pictures…and look carefully and critically at every mounted head he sees.

In the Case of Pronghorn Antelope….

[T]he horns of buck antelope are very easy to classify. Those of an immature buck do not give the impression of blackness. If the hunter gets a good look at them, they appear rounded, unfinished. The prong is not prominent or well-developed.

The horns of a mature buck are much more massive. The prong is well-developed and conspicuous. They look black. They project far beyond the ears. If the hunter gets a good chance to look over a buck with a high-powered binocular or spotting scope, he should notice the tips. Sometimes, they are not greatly curved. At other times, they are curved on the ends like fishhooks and are ivory-tipped. Estimating how far the horns project above the ears doesn’t do too much good because many handsome heads have much of their length in the hook. A horn that looks very black, looks heavy and massive at the base, has a well-developed prong and a pronounced hook, and with a length approaching that of the face, is a very good head. Anyone who looks for these three characteristics and who does not shoot until he sees such a head will get a perfectly satisfactory trophy with a horn length around the curve from 14-15 inches.

Most mature antelope have horns measuring about13 to 14-1/2 inches. In any fairly good antelope country anyone content to wait a while and not shoot until he sees something that looks pretty good should be able to come home with a trophy in this class.

Any head with a well-developed prong and over 15 inches in length is a very good head and one to be proud of. If it is massive enough and has a good enough prong, it stands a good chance to get in the record book. Anyone who has seen some antelope heads and is lucky enough to run into a real buster will know it immediately. As is the case with almost any other trophy of top quality, the horns will jump out and hit you in the eye.

Any head with a curve of 17 inches is very, very good…. A heavy, well-developed head that is 18 inches around the curve is really getting up there.

1 nov 06

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From The Art of Hunting Big Game in North America, By Jack O’Connor:

[G]ood mule deer heads are found pretty generally all over [the West] wherever their browse contains the right combination of lime and protein and the bucks are not shot before they mature….

It is rare that a good head comes from any area that is easily accessible and is pounded hard by hunters, but since most deer hunters are not found far from automobiles roads, there is still plenty of good mule deer country where the enterprising…hunter can go in with a backpack or a little pack outfit.

[T]he yearling mule deer is generally a spike, but may be a forkhorn. With rich food and plenty of it, he may grow four points and a brow tine his second fall. Antlers reach the maximum size between the fifth and eighth years….

[C]lose-pinched and wide-spread antlers are found wherever there are mule deer. The handsomest and most spectacular are the antlers with wide spreads, and the average hunter ranks mule deer antlers by the spread….

[T]he important measurements are the length of the main beam, the number and length of the points and the symmetry. [A] hunter wanting to take home a mule deer trophy should hold out for a good, average, mature buck with five points [per side], counting the brow tine, on each side. If he should be fortunate enough to bump into [an exceptional] head…he will know it, as the buck will look “all horns.” If there is any doubt about the head being outstanding, then it isn’t.

8 nov 06

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From The Art of Hunting Big Game In North America, by Jack O’Connor:

The same conditions that produce large deer antlers also produce large elk antlers: rich food and the opportunity to mature. As is the case with the mule deer, elk are hunted very hard in areas that can be reached by automobile road to by a short pack trip, but there are vast areas of wilderness back country difficult to get into where [they] are seldom hunted….

When a bull is a long yearling, he is a spike. As a long two-year-old he has five points to a side. The next year he grows his first pair of six-point antlers. The normal elk head is always a six-pointer. The antlers grow larger until the bull is seven or eight years old, then they generally start to deteriorate. They grow smaller, but often have more points. Probably the finest, most spectacular and highest-scoring heads come from seven- and eight-year-old bulls…. Bulls with more than six points are actually quite rare, and bulls with deformed and freak heads are rarer still.

No one wanting a trophy should ever shoot a five-pointer. It is not necessary to count the points because the five-point heads are always short and have a flattened-out appearance something like the antlers of a deer. For the beginning elk hunters, the foolers are the small six-point heads grown by bulls in their fourth and fifth year. To be a real trophy, the main beam of the antlers should be at least four feet long and the nearer they approach five feet, the better. If the hunter has time to look the head over he should note that the length of the beam approaches the height from ground to shoulder; that if the bull tips his head back, the tips of the antlers come almost to the hips; that all the points are large and well-developed. If a head looks like this, it is a real trophy. If it looks long and heavy and has more than six points, it is very, very exceptional.

For a quick check in the timber where a man must shoot instantly or not at all, the most important criterion is length. If the antlers tower far over the elk’s head or come back to his fanny when he lifts his head to go through the brush, crack him; he’s worth shooting!

From The Art of Hunting Big Game In North America, by Jack O’Connor:

I do not think that there is any doubt but that the whitetail deer is the smartest of all North American game animals, and I am likewise convinced that getting a really outstanding whitetail head is the most difficult task in trophy collecting.

There are many reasons for this. In the first place, the whitetail is generally an animal of forest and brush. When he is seen he is more often than not on the move and the hunter generally has to shoot quick or not at all. He has little time to size up a head.

Another reason is that a great many whitetails are found close to large centers of population and they are hunted hard by people who shoot at the first glimpse of an antler. Consequently, not many whitetail bucks live to become fully mature – and members of the deer family have their largest antlers when they are five to eight years old.

Still another reason is that in many areas, whitetail deer have been allowed to become too plentiful and they have overbrowsed their range. Fawns born of half-starved mothers do not become large and to grow large antlers deer have to eat food rich in protein and lime.

One pleasant thought is that good whitetail heads seem to come from just about every state where these beautiful deer are found, and the hunter wanting to collect an outstanding specimen would not have to go far from home. Actually, a high percentage of outstanding heads come from thickly-populated agricultural areas where the bucks feed on nourishing crops from fertile land….

The normal…whitetail buck may be a spike or forkhorn first year; a forkhorn or a small three-pointer (eight-pointer by Eastern count). When the whitetail buck is mature, the normal head has the brow tine or eye guard and four points. Easterners call this a ten-pointer, Westerners a four-pointer.

Two characteristics that make whitetail antlers different from those of mule deer are that all of the points on whitetail antlers grow off a main beam and the normal whitetail head has a large and prominent brow tine; on the other hand, normal mule deer antlers are dichotomous or evenly branched and the brow tine is smaller and is sometimes missing altogether….

Any mature whitetail buck is a very respectable trophy, and any buck with relatively massive antlers and five points to a side is a very good trophy. If Lady Luck ever sends a record-class whitetail in your direction you’ll know as he will look to be all antlers….

Getting a record whitetail is very difficult to manage, as even in good country one does not see many mature bucks in a season to shoot at, and he must size up those he does see in a few seconds….

Quick Tip

For The Week

Good stock is fundamental to good cooking. It is used as the base for sauces, and as the cooking liquid in many recipes. Game stock is usually made by boiling the bones of big-game animals, birds or small game, usually with vegetables or seasonings. It adds more flavor to recipes than commercial beef or chicken broth. For convenience, freeze stock in 1-cup batches or can it in a pressure cooker. Leave 1/2-inch space in pint jars; process at 10 pounds pressure for 20 minutes.

If you make a large batch of stock, you may want to try a technique used by professional chefs. Prepare the stock without adding salt, then strain it through a double thickness of cheesecloth. Allow the strained stock to cool completely, then skim off any fat. Boil the strained, skimmed stock until it is reduced by half to make a demi glace (half-glaze), which is the base for many classic French sauces. Reducing the demi glace even further produces a hard, rubbery glaze that can be cut into small chunks and frozen. A small chunk of the glaze added to a sauce or braising liquid intensifies the flavor of the dish without adding liquid. If a recipe calls for a teaspoon of instant bouillon granules, you can substitute a small chunk of glaze and a bit of salt.

Next week, we will offer recipes for venison and game bird stock that you can use in any wild game recipe rather than beef or chicken broth.

Venison Stock:

Browning the bones in the oven makes the stock rich and dark. Venison stock requires long cooking to bring out all the flavor from the large bones. This recipe will produce about three quarts of stock.

·        Enough deer, antelope, elk or moose bones to fill stockpot (5 to 10 pounds)

·        4 to 6 carrots, cut into 2-inch pieces

·        3 or 4 stalks of celery, cut into 2-inch pieces

·        2 medium onions, cut into quarters

·        2 bay leaves

·        10 whole black peppercorns

·        4 or 5 sprigs of fresh parsley

·        1 sprig fresh thyme, or 1/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves

Arrange bones in roasting pan. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Roast until well-browned, about one hour, turning bones once during roasting. Transfer bones to stockpot.

Loosen browned bits from roaster by stirring, adding 1 cup water if necessary. Pour liquid into large measuring cup. Skim fat and discard. Add liquid to stockpot.

Add remaining ingredients to stockpot. Cover bones with cold water. Heat to boiling over medium-high heat. Reduce heat. Skim foam from top of stock. Simmer for about 8 hours, skimming periodically, adding water as necessary to keep bones covered.

Strain stock through a double thickness of cheesecloth. Discard bones and vegetables. Pour stock into stockpot. Heat to boiling over medium-high heat. Cook until reduced to about 3 quarts. Cool slightly. Refrigerate overnight. Skim any solidified fat from top.

Game Bird Stock:

Pheasant, partridge, grouse, turkey or any waterfowl work best. Save the backbone and neck when portioning birds, and any bones left after boning, until you have enough to make stock game bird stock cooks quicker than venison stock. This recipe will produce about three cups of stock.

·        1-1/2 to 2 pounds uncooked game bird backs and bones

·        1 small onion, quartered

·        1 stalk celery, cut into 1-inch pieces

·        1 carrot, cut into 1-inch pieces

·        1/4 cup snipped, fresh parsley

·        1/2 tsp. dried marjoram leaves

·        1/2 tsp. dried thyme leaves

·        6 whole black peppercorns

·        2 whole cloves

·        1 bay leaf

·        1-1/4 tsp. salt (optional)

·        4 to 6 cups water

In large saucepan, combine all ingredients, adding enough water to completely cover the bones and vegetables. Heat to boiling over medium-high heat. Reduce heat. Skim foam from top of stock. Simmer for 1-1/2 to 2 hours, skimming periodically. Strain through a double thickness of cheesecloth. Discard bones and vegetables. Cool stock slightly. Refrigerate overnight. Skim any solidified fat from top.

Rabbit Stock:

Tips for the “Do-It-Yourself” Butcher:

• When removing a large portion of silverskin from a loin or other major section, use a fillet knife. Cut into one end of the meat to the silverskin. Turn blade parallel to silverskin. Hold silverskin firmly with fingertips, and push knife away from them as though skinning a fish fillet. Very little meat is removed with the silverskin this way, and what is left behind can be scraped off with the fillet knife for use as jerky, sausage or burger.
• Butterfly small-diameter backstraps, tenderloins or other cuts to make larger steaks. Cut a steak twice as thick as you want. Then slice it into two “wings” of equal thickness; leave the two wings joined by an edge of meat. Open steak up and flatten slightly. Venison lends itself to thin cuts of 1/2- to 3/4-inch, but some prefer thinner still, such as 1/4-inch, or thicker, up to an inch. Personal preference will dictate the final thickness.
• Cut across the grain of the meat when steaking it or making slices for sautéing. This will ensure that the meat will be tender and flavorful. Cut with the grain, however, when making slices for jerky. This keeps the final product chewy. Partially frozen meat is easiest to slice.
• Chop or grind trimmed big-game scrap with 15 to 2-% beef fat to make burger use a food processor or meat grinder; the blades must be sharp. Fat is easiest to chop if kept very cold. Even when frozen, fat in the meat will go rancid over time. For longer freezer life and more versatility, omit fat from ground meat, package and freeze. This way, you have packages of ground meat whenever you want them. They can be used for jerky or, if desired, fat can be added for burger or sausage.
• If you do not have a vacuum sealer, you can achieve excellent results by packaging cuts, steaks, cubes or ground meat into zip-lock plastic freezer bags. Fill bag with desired amount of meat (quart sized bags are perfect for 1-, 1-1/2- or 2-pound packages). Be sure to eliminate air by immersing bag almost to its top in a sinkful of cold water. Take care not to allow water into the package. The pressure of the water pushes the air out, and by the time the bag is sunk to the level of the zip-lock, it will be as good as using any vacuum sealer. Seal the bag while it is still in the water. Wrap bag in freezer paper, either flat or folded in half, depending on the amount of meat and/or your preference. The freezer paper protects the zip-lock bag from ripping or puncturing, which could open the meat to freezer burn.
• Whether packaged or vacuum-sealed, label with a waterproof pen. Note the species, cut, quantity and date. For example: “Mule Deer; Hind Quarter Steak; 1 lb.; 2006.” Some prefer to add additional information, such as the sex and/or maturity of the animal, location hunted and month as well as year.

13 dec 06

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Now that hunting season is over, it’s a good time to take care of a few things in preparation for the year ahead. Doing so now will prevent any last-minute surprises next year.

First – and most obvious – clean and lubricate your rifle. Separate the barreled action from the stock and give the metal parts a good wiping down with a very lightly-oiled rag, using a brush to clean out action parts. Lightly oil moving parts with the barest hint of lubricant, such as 3-In-1 oil. Also, run just a touch of grease, such as Shooter’s Choice all-weather grease, behind each lug and on the side of each lug, then work the action a couple times. Finish by wiping the barreled action down with a dry, lint-free cloth. Some prefer to use a cloth that is impregnated with silicone; I have tried these and have found them to be very satisfactory as they add a final barrier against the elements.

For the bore, a good scrubbing with your favorite bore cleaner, such as Hoppe’s No. 9, is a must. Scrub with a brush (I prefer nylon brushes rather than bronze – never use steel!) several times, then swab with a patch until the patch comes through clean. Work from the breech forward and out the muzzle in order to avoid knocking any grit or powder residue into the action. Think you’re done? Maybe; maybe not. Run a patch saturated with copper solvent. If there is any green or blue, scrub with a nylon brush (bronze brushes contain copper and the solvent will destroy them over time) the same as you did with the Hoppe’s No. 9, then run a patch until it comes through clean. On rifles that have been neglected, you might find several “layers” of fouling, alternating between powder/grit, then copper, which comes from the bullet as it travels down the barrel and scrapes against the rifling. When you are sure that your bore is completely clean, lightly oil a final patch, then run it through the bore in order to leave a very light film of oil. Some prefer to finish by running a dry patch through to catch any excess oil.

Use a wood conditioner such as Pledge to remove dirt, oils and fingerprints from the stock, rubbing it in deeply to bring out the natural glow of the wood.

If you use a leather sling, now’s the time to saddle-soap it in order to keep it strong, pliable and free of cracks; also, make sure that the sling mounts and studs are secure.

When you’re finished, wipe everything down with a dry or silicone-impregnated cloth and reassemble the rifle.

Check your scope base and/or mounts to make sure that they are tight and will not move. Check your sight picture through your scope to make sure that the crosshairs are aligned properly. A good way to check this is by hanging a weighted piece of colored yarn from the ceiling; also one from the butt of the rifle to make sure that it is truly vertical. Once you have established that the rifle is straight, look through the scope at the string hanging from the ceiling. You will immediately notice if the scope is tilted. Clean your scope lenses according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Check your supply of ammunition. If you need more, now’s the time to get it, not the night before hunting season starts next year!

If you load your own ammunition, check your stock of components: powder, primers, brass, and bullets. If you find yourself in need of anything, replenish your supply now.

If your rifle needs any gunsmithing work, such as bedding the action or having the muzzle re-crowned, call your gunsmith now! The last thing a gunsmith needs is to have another rifle come into his shop in late September with the request, “Can I have it in time for opening day?”

Finally, sharpen your knives! Hunting knives, butchering knives, any other knives; get them done now, so you know that they’re done; rather than finding out that you have a dull knife when you’re standing over a freshly killed deer as the sun and the snow are starting to come down.

By following these few housekeeping techniques, you will be able to put your rifle away for the winter knowing that the next time you want to use it, it will be ready to go without any hitches. Failure to do so might result in a missed hunting or shooting opportunity next year.

20 dec 06

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It is no secret that wild game is good eating, but it can be surprising to learn just how healthy wild game is. Phyllis Dennee, Nutrition Education Specialist with the Montana State University Extension Service, states, “Without a doubt, when wild game or birds are harvested in a safe manner and care is taken both in the field and in the kitchen to handle and prepare the meat safely, it can be both a nutritious and tasty addition to your menu.”

Any meat is a substantial source for iron, protein and B vitamins; wild game is significant in that it is incredibly low in fat, including saturated fat.

Following is a table showing comparative nutritional values:

Nutrient Comparison of Different Foods (3 oz. serving)

Deer - 134 calories, 3 grams fat, 1 gram saturated fat

Elk - 124 calories, 2 grams fat, 1 gram saturated fat

Moose - 114 calories, 1 gram fat, 0 grams saturated fat

Caribou - 142 calories, 4 grams fat, 1 gram saturated fat

Pronghorn - 127 calories, 2 grams fat, 1 gram saturated fat

Beef - 259 calories, 18 grams fat, 7 grams saturated fat

Pork - 214 calories, 13 grams fat, 5 grams saturated fat

Source: U.S. Department of Agriculture

27dec06

If you’ve always been a “salt-and-pepper” cook when it comes to fish and game, you might have been missing out. While these basic condiments will always be found in any kitchen, there are many spices and herbs that will really enhance and bring out flavors, sending your prepared dishes to a whole new level.

With that in mind, don’t be afraid to do a bit of experimenting. The key with any new flavoring or seasoning is to start with just a little and then adjust from there. The goal is to complement the flavor of your fish and game; not to overwhelm.

Along with salt and pepper, four commercial seasonings that will always be welcome in our kitchen include Alpine Touch, Cavender’s Greek Seasoning and Lawry’s Seasoned Salt, which are all available locally. Those not living in Montana might have a hard time finding Alpine Touch, but it can be ordered by logging on to http://www.alpinetouch.com/ - www.alpinetouch.com . The fourth, called Carl’s Seasoning, came to me by way of a good friend in Tennessee. This bold and spicy blend is strongly recommended for any fish or game, and it has joined the three above as a permanent addition to our kitchen. You can order it by visiting http://www.carlsseasoning.com/ - www.carlsseasoning.com .

 As much as I praise the above seasoning blends, the fact remains that all are heavy in salt. Too much salt is unhealthy and can also overwhelm your food when cooking or at the table. For this reason, I advise that they be used sparingly and not combined with each other. To step away from salt and enjoy some outstanding variety, the fish-and-game cook should always keep handy an assortment of herbs and spices.

Following is a list of condiments that should be found in any sportsman’s kitchen. Some items, such as garlic and onion, can also be used fresh, depending on the intended use. A crushed or minced clove of garlic will turn any dish into a treat, as will a chopped onion. You will not use the listed items all of the time, but most of them will come in handy most of the time. A few will be rarely used, but when they are, you will be glad that you did.

Garlic Powder

Onion Powder

Beef Bouillon Granules

Chicken Bouillon Granules

Paprika

Poultry Seasoning

Dry Mustard

Lemon Pepper

Tender-Quick

Celery Salt

Bay Leaf

Chili Powder

Crushed Red Pepper

Cayenne Pepper

Sage

Cumin

Coriander

Basil

Thyme

Oregano

Allspice

Rosemary

Savory

Tarragon

Marjoram

Dill

Chives

Fennel

Parsley

Mint

Saffron

There are also a few liquid enhancements that will definitely come in handy in the sportsman’s kitchen. Use them in marinades, sauces, gravies and as “splash-on” seasonings. Use them sparingly, working up to an optimum amount according to taste:

Worcestershire Sauce

Soy Sauce (low-sodium is an excellent choice to bring our flavor without crowding in more salt)

Teriyaki Sauce

Liquid Smoke

Lemon Juice

Lime Juice

Tabasco Sauce

Madeira Wine

Burgundy

Red Wine Vinegar

White Wine Vinegar

Apple Cider Vinegar

Bourbon

Brandy

Rum

Beer

Sherry

3 jan 07

For longer freezer-life and better versatility, it is recommended that burger be ground without fat, which can be added when thawed, if necessary. Fat is not always needed or wanted in ground meat; also from this, any fat will turn rancid in the freezer over time. In the long run, your burger will be healthier and taste better if you omit the fat until it is actually needed, and then only use as much as necessary.

Cooking no-fat gameburger is not as difficult as it might seem, although some care is necessary. In sauces, chili, casseroles, meatloaf, meatballs and other similar dishes, it is actually easier to use; the ponderous process of degreasing burger by frying, then draining etc. is eliminated. There is no reason at all to add fat, only to eliminate it later.

One place where no-fat burger can be a challenge is with the “American hamburger.” When making a burger in a pan, on the grill or over the coals, rub both sides of the burger with canola oil and do not pre-heat above medium. If you want to brown the burger toward the end of cooking time, turn the heat up for the last minute or two, but not before. Since the no-fat burger burns more easily, use lower heat than you normally would and keep an eye on it. Before long, cooking burgers using this method will be as natural as frogs in a pond.

If the above process sounds too complicated or time-consuming, freshly-ground fat can be added to your burger just before cooking. Add 10-20%, depending on preference. Beef fat, such as steak trimmings, is the most common type; however, pork fat or a half-beef, half-pork combination can be an excellent choice. Due to suet’s greasy, waxy texture, it should not be a first choice. When grinding fat, grind it very fine and mix it in completely. Grinding is easiest when fat is partially frozen.

10 jan 07

When making burger, add spices to the meat before it is ground. Pre-seasoning enhances flavor and is worth a try. When you thaw your burger for use, it will be pre-spiced and flavorful, ready for any cooking job.

In a large bowl holding 10 pounds of meat (chunked for grinding), lightly sprinkle garlic powder, freshly-ground pepper and a tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce. Grind your burger, package, label and freeze.

The above formula makes a good initial spicing. If you find later that your taste buds call for more or less spicing, alter the amount to suit yourself or try different spices. Soy sauce, onion powder, paprika and oregano are prime candidates. Other suggestions include teriyaki marinade or commercial seasonings such as Carl’s, Dale’s, Alpine Touch or Cavender’s Greek seasoning.

Do not overdo spicing because, even frozen, flavors tend to get stronger over time. Your burger can easily be overwhelmed, especially with garlic. For the same reason, go easy with any liquid used for pre-seasoning.

17 January 2007

Making a big-game rolled roast is easy and increases the versatility of cuts such as flank, shoulder and bottom round.

Butterfly meat that is thicker than one inch by cutting into two thinner pieces; leave the meat connected at one edge. Open the butterflied meat so it lies flat. Roll the meat tightly with the grain, tucking in any irregular edges.

Tie rolled meat about an inch from the end that is farthest from you; use a 60-inch piece of kitchen string. Leave several inches at the short end of the string; you will need to tie the two ends of the string together after making loops around the meat.

Make a loop in the string, then twist the loop once to make a small “braid” (arrow). Slip the braided loop over the end of the meat closest to you, then slide the loop so it is about one inch from the string tied around the far end.

Snug up the first loop by pulling on the long end of the string, adjusting its length so the braid lines up with the original knot. The roast will look more attractive when it is served if all the braids are lined up along the top of the roast.

Continue making loops about an inch apart, snugging them up as you go. Tie on additional string if necessary. When you have made a loop about an inch from the close end (dotted line), slip the string underneath the roast so it comes out on the far side.

24 January 2007

The primary consideration before beginning any ice-fishing trek is ice thickness. As a general rule-of-thumb, you need three inches of solid ice for walking; four for ice fishing; five for walking on ice with a heavy load of gear; seven for a loaded snowmobile or ATV; eight for a car or light truck and twelve for a heavy truck.

Listed below are a few circumstances that ice-fishermen (or women!) should be keep in mind before heading out to the ice:

·        New Ice vs. Old Ice – Clear blue, freshly-formed ice is much stronger than old ice that has been partially-thawed or broken up, then refrozen.

·        Lake Narrows – Unprotected, weedy, dark-bottom narrows between lakes or lake basins are often shallow and subject to current flow, inhibiting ice formation.

·        River Currents – River ice normally has great variations in thickness; this is due to several factors, including channel depth, bottom content and current speed.

·        Springs – Inflowing springs bring warmer, moving water that can create pockets of open water or thin ice.

·        Ice Cracks, Heaves and Ridges – Anglers should avoid pressure cracks, heaves and ridges. Such areas form when layers of thickening ice expand, often leaving lines of open water that may expand as winds shift the ice.

Ice anglers should also follow the Boy Scout Motto and BE PREPARED for the unexpected by carrying the following safety equipment:

·        Life Jacket – Whenever possible, wear a Coast Guard-approved personal flotation device (PFD) when traveling on ice of questionable thickness.

·        Ice Chisel – As you walk onto any frozen lake, check ice thickness by striking it firmly with a sharp chisel; if the chisel punctures or fractures the ice, immediately follow your path back to shore.

·        Ice Cleats – Ice cleats, or creepers, consist of adjustable straps, belts, elastic bands or rubber overshoes supporting metal teeth. They attach to boots, allowing traction on smooth, slippery ice, helping anglers avoid injury-causing falls.

·        Ice Picks – When venturing on ice of unknown thickness, carry a set of ice picks. If you do fall though the ice, you can use the picks to pull yourself from the water by sticking them into the ice.

·        Rope – Carry a rope in a convenient location; if you do happen to fall through the ice, or if you see someone else fall through it will surely come in handy.