.270 WSM Case’s
Printed From: The BaitShop
Category: FireArms, et cetera
Forum Name: Metallic Cartridge Handloading and Bullet Casting
Forum Description: Discuss reloading, bullet casting etc. here. We take no responsibility for the safety or validity of the loads mentioned in this forum. Start low and work up to what is safe in YOUR firearm!
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Topic: .270 WSM Case’s
Posted By: Tikkabuck
Subject: .270 WSM Case’s
Date Posted: 01 November 2004 at 08:47
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Hey Guys Something is not right,something thats not happened to me before,HELP. I'm only getting 2 reloads per shell case out of my reloads on the WSM and I'm not loading to max , I'm using brand new Win. brass. Whats going on here? ------------- God,Mother,Country,and Hot Rods. Done with political crap.LOL |
Replies:
Posted By: 7mm Magnum
Date Posted: 01 November 2004 at 10:23
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What is happening to the brass?? ------------- Shoot Straight & Stay Safe! Terry A. Webster Life Member NAHC Life Member NAFC Life Member NRA Mich. Steelheaders RMEF Supporting Member SCI Veteran US Army 70-72 SGT 1Bn 327th Inf Div |
Posted By: Tikkabuck
Date Posted: 01 November 2004 at 10:28
I guess that might help. They are spliting right at the tip of the neck.------------- God,Mother,Country,and Hot Rods. Done with political crap.LOL |
Posted By: bkcorris
Date Posted: 01 November 2004 at 10:47
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Mike, not sure I can offer any help really, but I can say I use Win
cases in mine and have gotten 6 - 8 loadings, and most are stout loads.
The only problems I have had is with them is one split neck, other than
that the cases get hard and stick in the chamber after so many loads. I
think annealing or outside trimming might cure it but I chuck the cases
when it starts happening. If I may ask, what load and performance are you getting with the cases in the spotlight? One thing I found odd with mine, and the numbers are the same in manuals, is that 130's and 150's perform great, but 140's are comparingly slow velocity wise. For some reason no matter what I try I cannot get 140's even as fast as the 150's, just odd, but Win shows the same in their manual. 130's go near 3260, 150's go around 3100, but 140's won't pass 3080. Ya I know, just skip them and go with the 150'2 then right?? Nope, too easy  ....lol------------- 
Stupid people are like a slinky, they don't serve much purpose in the world but they sure are fun to watch tumble down the stairs! |
Posted By: Timberghozt
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 13:29
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Tikka.I`d really need to see the rifle to know.But take a look at the headspace.What you are describing has all the symptoms of a headspace problem.Are you full length resizing these cases or neck sizing? Gene ------------- 
"Don`t touch my .50 numbnuts" Me..... |
Posted By: drinksgin
Date Posted: 02 November 2004 at 14:52
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TB;
Several things, are you neck sizing only, do you use a heavy roll crimp, do you anneal after the first firing? I have had factory crimped cases split the neck in 3-5 years of just sitting in the shelf, unfired. Lee has a "Factory Crimp", collet crimper for most calibers and I have found several of them can be used on other cases by the use of washers of selected thickness. The collet crimper is very easy on the cases and gives a good crimp if you have a heavy recoiling rifle that may set bullets back in the cases , under recoil, while in the magazine, box or , especially, tubular. You may have a rifle with excessive headspace or an oversized chamber. Do a chamber cast, sulphur is the cheap way to go, Cerrocast is more expensive and must be miked within 1 hour for accurate results. A 4 lb sack of Sulphur is usually found at a garden center for 3-4$ and will make 8-10 casts. Just put a piece of light wire in the chamber, with a small hook on the end, a paper plug far enough down to clear the chamber and push the cast out from the muzzle with a wooden dowel from the hardware store. Don 
------------- Don |
Posted By: Tikkabuck
Date Posted: 03 November 2004 at 02:18
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Hey Guys Not sure what annealing is?? I'm full lenth sizing and my OAL is what is recomended in the books I don't do any type of crimpimg on the neck. The laod I'm using is Magpro @74 gr. win mag primers and a Hornady SST 130 grain bullet. By the book 75.5 is max and pushing 3359 velocity and min. is 68 grains pushing 2958. The rifle is the new Winchester I picked up last Feb. ------------- God,Mother,Country,and Hot Rods. Done with political crap.LOL |
Posted By: 7mm Magnum
Date Posted: 03 November 2004 at 04:05
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Tikka,... Annealling is a form of heat treating the case neck. A friend of mine made a device for annealing the necks to alliviate his cracking problem. He used an old turntable for LPs, & puts his brass on it and turns it on to 33 or 45 and heats the brass' neck as it's spinning until it turns red. He then nocks it over into a pan of water....It sounded pretty slick. ------------- Shoot Straight & Stay Safe! Terry A. Webster Life Member NAHC Life Member NAFC Life Member NRA Mich. Steelheaders RMEF Supporting Member SCI Veteran US Army 70-72 SGT 1Bn 327th Inf Div |
Posted By: Timberghozt
Date Posted: 03 November 2004 at 10:14
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I wouldn`t think that he is work hardening that brass with so few firings but I suppose it is possible. Tikka, with cases like the 25-06 AI it is sometimes necessary to anneal it because of so much stretching during the fireforming process that it will split the brass in its virgin state.The softened brass will stretch a lot easier.Has to do with the webbing of the brass.As well with work hardened brass from multiple firings and resizing. -------------
"Don`t touch my .50 numbnuts" Me..... |
Posted By: Bug91
Date Posted: 27 November 2004 at 03:13
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Another thought. Have you trimmed these cases? Often, I find the mouth on factory cases very rough, almost serrated. These tiny jagged edges may be initiating your case mouth splits. Try trimming just enough to clean up the mouths, then chamfer & deburr. It MIGHT alleviate the problem. That, along with a case-neck anneal, certainly should. |
Posted By: CB900F
Date Posted: 27 November 2004 at 05:42
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Tikka; I also doubt that your cases have worked to the point that they need to be annealed. I agree with Bug that a trim & champfer may very well alleviate your problem. BUT - I'd also have that barrel checked for an oversize neck in the chamber. Which brings me to: Unless you're swapping ammo with other guns, start neck sizing only. Your brass will last longer & your accuracy will probably improve. If annealing is necessary, obtain the NRA Handloader's Guide & use the method they suggest. 900F ------------- Birth certificate!? He don't need no steenkink birth certificate!! |
Posted By: Tikkabuck
Date Posted: 27 November 2004 at 06:58
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Hey Guys Thanks for the help. This are new Win. brass that has only been fired in my Winchester. Before reloading I do the neck trim and champfer. What would be happening to the case's if I was loading them to hot ? Could this be messing me up? ------------- God,Mother,Country,and Hot Rods. Done with political crap.LOL |
Posted By: CB900F
Date Posted: 05 December 2004 at 16:12
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Tikka; Presuming that the headspace is correct, hot loads will sometimes present the following symptoms: flattened primers, cratered primers, primer pocket loose & will not seat next primer with a proper feel, hard bolt lift, very hard to extract, hard extraction accompanied with scratched brass, rim pulled by the extractor - usually only in Mauser actions, and case failure. If head space is not correct, there may very well be a bright ring on the brass just ahead of the extractor groove. That's where the brass is thinning & getting ready to separate. Also may be bolt head impression on the base of the brass. Photos of all of these symptoms are available in the various reloading manuals. Or, just stop loading 7mm bullets in the .270 case 900F
------------- Birth certificate!? He don't need no steenkink birth certificate!! |
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