well it is fun putting anything on a 10-22.  But generally IMO the 22rf doesn't have a large barrel vibration problem as a centerfire might.  the bullet is lead, not jacketed, the velocity is low, and generally the barrel is thick when compared with the bore diameter;  all reducing inconsistent harmonics.

Also if it is shooting accurate, why fix it.  How tight is it shooting? Again, my limited experience is the thing that needs the most fixing to shrink groups with the 10-22 is the lousy trigger.  Just my 2 cents.

Thedad;

In my experience, the easiest way to get better results from a 10/22 is to do a lot of ammo testing.  You'd be surprised how much difference there can be between not only different brands of ammo, but between different offerings within a brand.  Then, yes indeed, get the trigger set up to suite yourself.  Bear's correct in that it should be one of the first things to get done.

Don't be too quick to spend the money for a whoop-de-do barrel either.  You can pick up other people's take-offs for cheap.  Do the ammo testing with one or two of them before you decide to empty the wallet on a Volquartsen barrel, or something  like that.  Ammo's cheap compared to a new barrel.

foo

Igbo Foo wrote: Thedad; In my experience, the easiest way to get better results from a 10/22 is to do a lot of ammo testing.  You'd be surprised how much difference there can be between not only different brands of ammo, but between different offerings within a brand.  Then, yes indeed, get the trigger set up to suite yourself.  .....

Hear, hear - I'm in full aggrement with foo!

Based on what you've told us about your upgrades, Here's the order I take:

1) ammo testing

2) trigger work

PS: I've read where some have actually hurt the accuracy of their 10/22 by floating the barrel on the aluminum receiver models.  Mine was freefloated but shoots best with a small pressue point at the end of the stock using aluminum duct tape.