Fiberglass repair on boat

I like West Marine stuff.    Interlux is good also.

Right now West marine has their Boater's resin on sale usually 23.99 for 13.99.  Can't beat that.  Spring is "sale" time.

I assume you have a wooden boat.  I never  cover over bad wood, replace the bad wood with good grade plywood (brass screws) and fiberglass over, sand and paint.

If it is fiberglass lots of options, and it depends upon your boat use.  Resin and glass fabric is always good.

Stuff today is GREAT, comparied to the stuff of 30 years ago.

What you doing?????

I am painting the bottom of my 12 foot john boat to go crappie fishing next weekend.  Using a heavy oil base green.  Boat is AL.

BEAR

I have built and repaired boats over the years. There are several types of "Fibreglass Resin" available, mainly polyester resins or epoxy resins. Either work well, but some are better for specific uses. This site has some info:  http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/eserv/eclipse.ecl?PROCI D=WEBDISP.WOEB.MAIN&ID_1=3&CLEV=MORE&TRACKNO=ove rture&OVRAW=fiberglass%20repair&OVKEY=fiberglass%20r epair&OVMTC=standard

I have used the materials found at Wal-Mart with fair success for repairs. Get the heavy woven mat or universal matting. Cut strips the width needed, turn the boat upside down, and get ready. The secret to a good repair is prep and keeping the patch working HOT (don't stop and let it harden). Use a grinder to rough up the repair area. Tooth gives the patch something to grip. Mix the resin a bit "cold" (a little less hardener than recommended) or work in small batches. Use disposable brushes, and paint on a good layer of resin. Place the matt or roving in place, paint w/resin removing ALL air bubbles as you go. Just keep layering it. When slightly higher than required, stop and let the built up area kick or cure.

Anytime the resin kicks, it expells wax. This means that if you stop and allow the resin to harden, you must sand grind and clean the area again to insure adhesion. ALWAYS! When in doubt, sand, grind and clean.

Shape the built up area, prep the areas around it. Clean it all with Acetone, and then lay the woven matting down with resin. Get all the bubbles out. Lay a second layer down and let it cure for at least 24 hours. Start final prep with a acetone wash and a light wire brushing (saves a lot of gummed sandpaper), then sand to feather patch into hull. Lightly sand entire hull and paint with most any 2 part automotive paint (is boat is not to be kept in water at dock). Most 2 part automotive paint will even stand up to constant storage in water.

My experience has been poor with Automotive finishes on marine gear.  Maybe I'm just unlucky???

Like most things, prep is the important thing and that takes fime.  So I figure that my time is worth the diffenence in paint costs.  Auto fiberglass is ok, same stuff as some marine.  Mickey is telling you right about thinking ahead as you feather edge the fabrics into the present shape, you don't want to make a bump.

BEAR

Gary,

Primer MUST match paint type, paint center will advise what to use. Again, my experiance is with 2 part automotive paint. I gives a fair shine, and is quite durable. I painted my father-in-law's Crosby Sled and after 5 years of heavy use, it still looked good. I used an air brush to paint it with, just used a larger jar.

I wouldn't even consider clear coat.