remington trigger adjustment

  There's a lot of websites that have the information on this. One is   http://quarterbore.com/library/articles/rem700trigger.html. 

dakotasin,

 Drive out the twp pins holding the thing onto the action, being carefull to have the safety out of the way of the rear pin.!

The sear will come out of the trigger houseing with the removeall of the rear pin. With the certain risk of junking the thing, stone the bearing surface of the sear keeping the edge sharp and 90 degrees or you'll be sorry.

Depending upon age, an L shapped piece will be set upon the top of the trigger inside the housing and should fall free. Stone the top of this also so that the bearing surfaces are glass smooth. Reassemble the whole mess and use appropriately strong language when trying to get that blasted rear pin back in along with the bolt release lever. It takes 3 hands . I 1/8th inch punch pin slid thru initially and driven back out with the pin helps.

The rear screw is sear engagement. A hole in the left side of the housing lets you see how much you  have. STart with a lot so that yu can feel the creep. Insert the bolt and screw the top screw on the front of the housing in until the trigger won't fall when pulled. This is over travel. Back off a bit at a time until the cocked trigger can release . This is minimal overtravel. Adjust from there to your liking.

The bottom front screw is weight of pull. With a properly stoned trigger and sear a man can get away with a heavier pull and like it! Screwing in increases the pull and backing out decreases it. Put it to your liking aand THEN!!!! adjust that back screw to take out creep. Remember that the weight of pull spring also returns the top of the trigger lever to battery and positions it under the sear. The unwashed and unread person may easily lighten the pull with no other adjustments and so create a situation ripe for the interference of ambulance chasing atorneys who will threaten to sue everyone in site including the makers of the drugs the trigger adjuster is using between his gunsmithing jobs.

 So....take the time to polish the surfaces. Adjust overtravel to suit. Don't go to light with that front bottom screw. Use some common sense with that back screw for sear engagement. Some Rem screws are too stiff and backing them off for weight of pull doesn't do much until it is too light. Replace them with a softer spring and you may have more infinite adjustments. I coat all screws with bright orange fingernail polish when done, which IDs it as my work and reminds me of a lady I meet in London.

You may have to make clearance in the wood web between the trigger and magazine box if the bottom screw is backed out farther than before. New springs and tight inletting may require it.

Of course test the thing by slammimg the bolt home (unloaded for Wankers) a few times and cycling the safety.

I expect to get a 700trigger so done to 2 pounds or there abouts, depending upon how much time I take polishing the parts. Dry fire an empty 700 and watch that bolt shroud move up and down. Think about how the top of the sear lever interfaces with the cocking piece on the bolt bottom. Then think about that short trigger to sear contact. Scarry ain't it??.

Anyhow that's how I do it but I am old and irresponsible and unreliable and absent minded and careless and un insureable and of dubious worth and questionable character and I lie some too. IF I WERE YOU OR ANYONE ELSE I WOULDN'T TOUCH THE DARNED THING WITH A TOOL OF ANY SORT!!!!! dON'T DO IT DAKOTASIN PLEASE DON'T DO IT. LEARN TO SHOOT WITH A JUNK TRIGGER. THOUSANDS OF SAVAGE AND NEF SHOOTERS DO IT EVERY DAY!!!!!!

max

   Earl and Kingpin,  I'm glad you guys posted this info.  I've done some lightening on the triggers of my 2 Remingtons, but your information is better than what I've found at other places on the web.  I may try stoning later but for now I've got them at about 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 #s.  They don't have the glass breaking feel of a good trigger though and that would be nice to have.