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stinky
.243 Winchester Joined: 30 August 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 214 |
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Posted: 14 April 2014 at 17:35 |
My kid has just started shooting archery in 4H. Today, I buy new arrows and then glue the tips on, at about 4p. At about 6p, the tips were coming off at the range....as a side note, when I got home, I grabbed the remaining ones, and pulled em all out w/pliers and the glue was still wet (maybe the main problem).
One of the instructors noted that my tips have a mushroom bulge on them, just above the base (the bulge is maybe a 1/16" total, but probably half of that). He recommended getting tips that are the same size as the base as they are theoretically easier to pull out. What do you think? |
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John 14:6
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d4570
.416 Rigby Joined: 27 January 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9403 |
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??????? sorry
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BEAR
Administrator Joined: 07 September 2013 Location: Appalachian Mtn Status: Offline Points: 13734 |
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4p-6p ??????? is this an afternoon project? what are they rubber tipped? |
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stinky
.243 Winchester Joined: 30 August 2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 214 |
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I mis-spoke. I didn't glue the tips in, I glued the inserts in.
Here are the tips. http://goldtip.com/pointsdetail.aspx?nid=44 Edited by stinky |
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John 14:6
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BEAR
Administrator Joined: 07 September 2013 Location: Appalachian Mtn Status: Offline Points: 13734 |
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Ok I got it now. You have plastic threaded inserts into your aluminum or carbon hollow shafts. Then you have threaded points, filed points. I've never used the Bulging" points. My guess is that because they are over sized they do not penetrate far and could be easier to pull out. On foam targets the foam spreads and lets the arrow slid in, the friction on the shaft sometimes creats a heat bond, and arrows can be difficult to impossible to remove on heavy powered bows. the bulge points, should have a reverse taper from front to back so that the back is flush with the outside diameter of the shaft and tapers up to the large diameter front of the point, creating a flush fit af the shaft with the rear of the point. If the rear of the point is larger than the arrow shaft, then the tip acts as a bard and holds you point in the materail, so tight that the insert and the point pull out of the shaft. I'm not sure what the targets are made of? Some materials like plastic foam actually grab the point and the bulge could make it difficult to pull the point out (without pulling the insert out also). I think I'd just use regular target points (without the bulge. the points should be the same size as the outside dimension of your shaft to avoid it acting like a bulge again. Some people use a lube on the shaft and point when shooting into foam.
Edited by BEAR |
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RobertMT
.416 Rigby Joined: 12 March 2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4413 |
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They make arrow pullers, but a piece of foam pipe insulation, works as well. You'll bend far less aluminum arrows. As far as the tips, I used to use hot glue, it's fast and easy. I epoxied them in once, not the best idea.
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