Posted: 14 October 2009 at 05:50 | IP Logged

I just read thru the sizing lube thred again and it occured to me that handloaders, well a lot of them, are seldom satified with whats avaliable even it it works. Why is that? One guy said he'd been using one type lube and never had a problem but would use something else if it were better. What's better than a product that never failed you?

Another guy was using some stuff, lanolin I think, and WD-40. I used to use STP. Now how much effort do you have to expend to find stuff like this as compared to buying stuff that is made just for the job?

On another site I was reading about lead smeltering pot's and one guy mentioned he use's 20 Mule Team Borax to flux his lead. How in the world did he ever figure that out? Just wondering thru the soap part of the grocery store and saw a box of the stuff and thought, hummm, wonder how that woukd work as flux for lead! Shoot I bought a box of the stuff yesterday and discovered I don't know how much to use! Oh, he also mentioned using sawdust. Sawdust? Wonder how he figured that one out?

As for lubing cases, I read that one guy uses Pam cooking spray! Who's gonna give that a try. Guy's trying this stuff must be how they invented the stuck case remover!

Posted: 14 October 2009 at 06:08 | IP Logged

cost can be a motivation.  The cost per ounce on some of the lubes is sinful.

I started 49 years ago with C-H lube 'cause it came with my press.  A little goes a long way, but when I ran out I just used 10 weight motor oil, then $.25 quart.

When the spray dry lubes came out, I switched cause they are cleaner to use.  Tow of the brands I use to use quit the business,, so I'm on a third one.

If you want to find experimenters, look at all the bore cleaners made in kitchens.  The motivation is to find something that works better or faster than Hoppes #9.

Posted: 14 October 2009 at 09:01 | IP Logged

For years I have been using hornady unique case lube and have been statisfied with the results. Cost of the hornady is not an issue because my tub is still half full and I have load thousands of rounds.

I think people in general always try to find something that performs better. How many times have you sold or traded a perfectly good car for a newer one because the newer one might perform better or bought a new hunting jacket that might be a little warmer or offer a little better water resistance. I am guilty of all these things. I don't know very many people who arn't.

Posted: 20 April 2010 at 06:39 | IP Logged

Irish Bird Dog wrote: ....ditto here.....bottom pour pot....what's the top layer do???????

Holds the heat in the pot and keeps the surface of the lead from oxidizing.

Posted: 06 May 2010 at 09:27 | IP Logged

Alan, I have a Lee pot and it does seem to be hit an miss on the temperature, turn it up---turn it down---turn it up---etc.

any ways to avoid this.  I was thinking of a themometer in the pot?

Posted: 06 May 2010 at 14:22 | IP Logged

Steel I'm not sure of your definition of dross.  It is usually impurities, and oxides.  Things that are lighter than the base metal, that is why it floats.  the dross I skim is much lighter (when cooled) than lead.

Some of it may be lead oxide (the open pot thing).  But is not the same density as my pre-cast post cast lead.